OzGemini.com

Hey all gemini enthusiasts im wanting to put the battery in the boot just wondering if anyone has done this and how much cable i would need and also do i need anything else to do this. cheers

Come on , it's pretty simple , take note where you positive & negative cables connect to ,, put your battery where you want it to go , and then measure how much cable you need ,

Use a piece of string to trace out where the cables should go, measure and presto! Also you need a ventilated battery ( external )if your going to have in the boot, use a VE commodore battery.

Anthony_Gemini wrote:Come on , it's pretty simple , take note where you positive & negative cables connect to ,, put your battery where you want it to go , and then measure how much cable you need ,

Oh dear, the Kwai Chang Caine of OG simplifies life for us again. bwaa ha ha ha
Do you know anything about electrical resistance, and the current capacity of a cable?
Also a cable to the rear has greater protection issues that the short stock ones in the engine bay.

You are still breaking the rice paper, Grasshopper.

ghemini wrote:

Anthony_Gemini wrote:Come on , it's pretty simple , take note where you positive & negative cables connect to ,, put your battery where you want it to go , and then measure how much cable you need ,

Oh dear, the Kwai Chang Caine of OG simplifies life for us again. bwaa ha ha ha
Do you know anything about electrical resistance, and the current capacity of a cable?
Also a cable to the rear has greater protection issues that the short stock ones in the engine bay.

You are still breaking the rice paper, Grasshopper.

Oh dear , the troll of ozgemini is back to dribble on once again,

Where in my answer did I go into any electrical resistance or any bulls*#t like that ???

Ill be here waiting for you next essay ,

Anthony_Gemini wrote: Where in my answer did I go into any electrical resistance or any bulls*#t like that ???

A true schoolboy bogan, what he doesnt understand he calls "bulls*#t".

Resistance increases as you lengthen a cable, thus is has to be thicker to carry the same current over the longer distance.

Fact is its not quite as simple as you think, but hey yr from WA, so Ill cut you some slack, i guess this stuff seems like White man's magic to you, when you live out in the desert.

Blah blah blah ,, go back under your bridge

Sigh...

Turbocoupe75s method is excellent.

Measure the car get about a metre extra. I've done mine underneath the car and used industrial conduit (litterally ran over it and didn't crack) run the + to your battery from the starter motor. Get a decent sealed battery (as turbocoupe said VE woudl do nicely) chuck it in a sealed box make a mount for the box or something so it sits on an even surface.
Put a small pipe in for venting the box (engineer asked me to do it) and run a decent earth in the boot somewhere.

Jonno,

• care to mention the exact location of the hole you punched in the boot pan, and the route you took under the car?
• what exactly do you mean by industrial conduit?
• And how did you affix it to the underbody?
• I would initally think a run would be neater and safer better inside the cabin, so why did you choose outside?

Anthony_Gemini wrote:Blah blah blah ,, go back under your bridge

stfu and keep at yr homework, schoolboy. Same goes for your learner driver permit. One day you might get it.

Peter Peter Peter , you are a very sad individual

I'll post some pics later, I ran the cables through the body in the generic wiring conduit from super crap. Most After market cable is bigger and has less resistance than 35 year old coroded s%*tty Gemini battery cable, just make a good earth strap from the engine to noddy an a extra earth for the cable in the boot (

My car runs a larger pulley on the alternator for racing purposes an it charges the battery just fine.

Run an earth from terminal to the block, from the block to the body and from the battery terminal to the body in the boot. Use large guage battery cable and you won't get voltage drop. Do the other things everyone has said and you cant really go wrong. There are a few sealed batteries these days. A din 55 type has a hose as the vent that you can run straight out and you don't need to vent the box

ghemini wrote:Jonno,

• care to mention the exact location of the hole you punched in the boot pan, and the route you took under the car?
  
  Goes along the floor and then in just before the back seat.
• what exactly do you mean by industrial conduit?
  
  I dunno it's seems a bit more rigid than normal cheap s*#t and I acquired it from a builder mate.
• And how did you affix it to the underbody?
  
  I got "U" style clamp things to hold it in and bolted them through he floor.
• I would initally think a run would be neater and safer better inside the cabin, so why did you choose outside?

No idea just ran it that way at the time.

I was going to take pictures and put them up but haven't gotten around to it.
I think between Turbocoupe and moleys suggestions old mate should be able to get it done.
I'm sure he'd PM us or google if needed the pics urgently.

In terms of mounting the battery and box to the floor, few things to keep in mind. Places like Heathcote, Calder etc require the battery to be securly fastened as per standard arrangement - you cant just self tapper screw the box into the boot and say yeh done. Needs to be bolted THROUGH the floor, not to a timber false floor for eg, with the battery clamped and securely located.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... 4452#Cross

Can get these at supercheap, BCF or other marine joints. Bolt that to through the box and through the boot floor.

N-

Mine is mounted on the LH chassis rail

All the retail stores Supercrap ,Autoone , Repco etc i went into sell these battery plates , problem is the boxes they also sold are 10mm too wide .
I flattened one side and rebent it in a vice to suit the box ..

To hold the plate up to the same height as the chassis rail im using 2 large spacers from under the t-tube mount and a couple of shock rubbers . Using 2 existing chassis rail holes from previous towbar .


Under neath some shock absorber washers stop it from ripping through . These are 65mm bolts , might get a few shorter ones.


I found a belt i didnt like and decided it was the way to go , rather than the plastic clip belt supplied with the box.