76 TX Sedan
Re: 76 TX Sedan
nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
happiness is a cdt pf60 race car
now being worked on!!!!!!!
now being worked on!!!!!!!
Re: 76 TX Sedan
Productive weekend!
Fender mirrors on finally!
Still gotta remove the old ones. Ran out of time tonight though.
Excuse the coolant (rust water) under the car.
Been having a bit of trouble toilet training the car.
Just replaced the rad cap, and flushed the system.
But for some reason the car likes pumping a bit of water out the overflow after each drive.
Doesn't happen until a few minutes after I've stopped...
Anyone got any ideas?
Fender mirrors on finally!
Still gotta remove the old ones. Ran out of time tonight though.
Excuse the coolant (rust water) under the car.
Been having a bit of trouble toilet training the car.
Just replaced the rad cap, and flushed the system.
But for some reason the car likes pumping a bit of water out the overflow after each drive.
Doesn't happen until a few minutes after I've stopped...
Anyone got any ideas?
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- Regular
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- Location: Perth
Re: 76 TX Sedan
My landcruiser dumps out of the overflow bottle when I top it up to much , once it's down to the right level it stops
Does yours do it every drive ?
Does yours do it every drive ?
Re: 76 TX Sedan
Not every time.Anthony_Gemini wrote:My landcruiser dumps out of the overflow bottle when I top it up to much , once it's down to the right level it stops
Does yours do it every drive ?
And it definitely pumping out more than its supposed to.
If I don't remember to top it up next time, it's about half way down the core.
I top it up so it's just covering the fins with about 1cm water.
Re: 76 TX Sedan
Hey man .. If you its says "Recovery System" on your radiator cap you need a overflow bottle to catch the puke so it can suck it back in .. If you didnt already remove heater hoses and flush the heater core out both ways many times till its clean water .. while your there (if you havent) remove the block plug under your exhaust manifold and poke something in there to clean it out and get it flowing out clean water.
Re: 76 TX Sedan
Yeah, might give it another flush next weekend, think I left the heating system closed when I did it.GEMWRC wrote:Hey man .. If you its says "Recovery System" on your radiator cap you need a overflow bottle to catch the puke so it can suck it back in .. If you didnt already remove heater hoses and flush the heater core out both ways many times till its clean water .. while your there (if you havent) remove the block plug under your exhaust manifold and poke something in there to clean it out and get it flowing out clean water.
Radiator cap is a brand new repco special. 15PSI. Don't think that's recovery.
Noticed last night that the heater hose from the front of the head seems to be leaking a tad.
Might be sucking in air there and getting airlocks somewhere?
- Holden202T
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- Location: Tenambit, NSW.
- Contact:
Re: 76 TX Sedan
a recovery cap will have two rubber seals, one on the spring loaded part and one on the cap base, if it only have the one on the spring part its not a recovery cap.
Antus had the same issue at the hillclimb.
Antus had the same issue at the hillclimb.
No matter what the question is, the answer is always more horsepower!!
Re: 76 TX Sedan
Few bits and pieces done recently.
Finally sorted out the leaking/overheating business.
Turns out the heater hose from the front of the head wasn't sealing properly. Bit of air was getting in the system and causing it to have pressure blocks or something. Whatever it was, not fixed!
Replaced rear wheel bearings, not sure if I said that already.
And finally lowered it!
Pics tell the story
Koni reds. Lovells springs.
Rubs a bit on the back going over big bumps, and can't have more than 1 passenger. Haha.
Think I'll try out some higher springs.
But my aim was to nicely lower it all legalty.
And with the pre-RTS control arms etc.
Since then I have also replaced the sealed beams with some ebay specials. And it's 100x better!
Finally sorted out the leaking/overheating business.
Turns out the heater hose from the front of the head wasn't sealing properly. Bit of air was getting in the system and causing it to have pressure blocks or something. Whatever it was, not fixed!
Replaced rear wheel bearings, not sure if I said that already.
And finally lowered it!
Pics tell the story
Koni reds. Lovells springs.
Rubs a bit on the back going over big bumps, and can't have more than 1 passenger. Haha.
Think I'll try out some higher springs.
But my aim was to nicely lower it all legalty.
And with the pre-RTS control arms etc.
Since then I have also replaced the sealed beams with some ebay specials. And it's 100x better!
Re: 76 TX Sedan
Streets look tits, nice work.
danman wrote:Seriously! A field of rape...
Jonno wrote:No gemini is a good investment
Re: 76 TX Sedan
I am a fan.
You can take more than one passenger You just have to deal with all the strange looks as you roll down the street with smoke pouring off the tyre I have a few times, man people look at you funny! Haha
You can take more than one passenger You just have to deal with all the strange looks as you roll down the street with smoke pouring off the tyre I have a few times, man people look at you funny! Haha
List of people I hate: You.
Re: 76 TX Sedan
nice ride.... you could try a lower profile and a slimmer tyre to lessen the scrubbing
Re: 76 TX Sedan
Fair bit happening over the last few months.
Been absolutely loving the ride height since lowering it. Think I will go for a bit lower profile tyre next time however. 4 people in the car including me and ended up burning through half the sidewall after a 4 minute drive! I've hammered in the lip, and not sure if you can really roll the rears much as there is a double skin there or something.
Most work has been going into the engine.
Gemracing built me up a N/A 1.8L with all the goodies.
1.8 bottom end
TX large port/valve head with further port and polish, etc.
Crow cam and valve springs.
2L oil pump.
Single 60mm rodeo high torque manifold/plenum setup with big injectors.
All run by a Haltech Sprint 500.
To go along with it I've got a 5 speed box with ZZ remote shifter.
Still to get a console for it though unfortunately.
Wiring all done by myself. Not the easiest thing the first time. But once you get your head around it it's no sweat.
I wanted everything hidden. So relays were installed to the top of the radio. And the fuse box behind the glove box. Ecu is on the transmission tunnel and will be covered by the console once I get one.
Fuel pump and filter fitted under the boot where the Japanese EFI models had theirs mounted.
Made up a cover for them so it's all protected.
Also went ahead and put a floor in the boot and a board over the fuel tank as there was nothing there before.
I wanted to have as clean an install as possible. Still on my P plates, so technically can't have any performance modifications.
What people don't know wont hurt them right?
After a couple of trips to the wreckers and mocking it up in a shell in the yard. I came up with this airbox setup which I'm pretty proud with.
It's meant moving the battery to the boot, but I can live with that.
VK piping turned upside down to clear the rocker cover. VL airbox. Bolts onto the battery tray and just clears the bonnet.
I also got a bigger radiator off Elky and fitted a 15" thermo to it.
All that's left is to give it a run in tune, and then a power tune once everything is happy!
The setup has been chosen to allow as much future upgrading as possible.
Plan is to boost it in a few years time once I'm off P plates.
In the mean time I'll be finishing off the interior. Aiming for some nice Recaro seats. Thinking LS/LX model. Nardi steering wheel. Black interior with retrimmed late model rear seat, sun visors, arm rests, door cars, roof lining etc.
Looking for a front lip for it still, similar to the one LOK does, but a bit smoother lines. I've seen it over in Japan, but not an easy piece to source.
Then hopefully a lick of paint in the next 12 months. At the moment have my heard set on a light metalic sky blue sort of colour.
Similar to this ██████
Video to come once it is tuned!
Been absolutely loving the ride height since lowering it. Think I will go for a bit lower profile tyre next time however. 4 people in the car including me and ended up burning through half the sidewall after a 4 minute drive! I've hammered in the lip, and not sure if you can really roll the rears much as there is a double skin there or something.
Most work has been going into the engine.
Gemracing built me up a N/A 1.8L with all the goodies.
1.8 bottom end
TX large port/valve head with further port and polish, etc.
Crow cam and valve springs.
2L oil pump.
Single 60mm rodeo high torque manifold/plenum setup with big injectors.
All run by a Haltech Sprint 500.
To go along with it I've got a 5 speed box with ZZ remote shifter.
Still to get a console for it though unfortunately.
Wiring all done by myself. Not the easiest thing the first time. But once you get your head around it it's no sweat.
I wanted everything hidden. So relays were installed to the top of the radio. And the fuse box behind the glove box. Ecu is on the transmission tunnel and will be covered by the console once I get one.
Fuel pump and filter fitted under the boot where the Japanese EFI models had theirs mounted.
Made up a cover for them so it's all protected.
Also went ahead and put a floor in the boot and a board over the fuel tank as there was nothing there before.
I wanted to have as clean an install as possible. Still on my P plates, so technically can't have any performance modifications.
What people don't know wont hurt them right?
After a couple of trips to the wreckers and mocking it up in a shell in the yard. I came up with this airbox setup which I'm pretty proud with.
It's meant moving the battery to the boot, but I can live with that.
VK piping turned upside down to clear the rocker cover. VL airbox. Bolts onto the battery tray and just clears the bonnet.
I also got a bigger radiator off Elky and fitted a 15" thermo to it.
All that's left is to give it a run in tune, and then a power tune once everything is happy!
The setup has been chosen to allow as much future upgrading as possible.
Plan is to boost it in a few years time once I'm off P plates.
In the mean time I'll be finishing off the interior. Aiming for some nice Recaro seats. Thinking LS/LX model. Nardi steering wheel. Black interior with retrimmed late model rear seat, sun visors, arm rests, door cars, roof lining etc.
Looking for a front lip for it still, similar to the one LOK does, but a bit smoother lines. I've seen it over in Japan, but not an easy piece to source.
Then hopefully a lick of paint in the next 12 months. At the moment have my heard set on a light metalic sky blue sort of colour.
Similar to this ██████
Video to come once it is tuned!
Re: 76 TX Sedan
Top Effort , well worth the sweat and hours
Re: 76 TX Sedan
Im a fan of the wheels
Re: 76 TX Sedan
Small update.
Still isn't running.
Need to swap the coil for something a bit more powerful.
Potentially put a thicker cable from the boot. Only 4g.
Going along the line of the LS1 coil as it haw the module built in.
While waiting for all that, been doing the interior up.
Picked up some Recaro seats finally. Took a while to find some locally in the right style.
Made up some rails and fitted them up. Sit at a nice height.
Also got a Nardi Classic wheel.
Had to re drill and tap the boss kilt I had.
And was rather painful to get the horn button to fit. But definitely worth it in the end!
Next is to get a black rear set. Black headlining, and sort out some black door cards. Not sure if I want original style door cars, or something made up.
Still isn't running.
Need to swap the coil for something a bit more powerful.
Potentially put a thicker cable from the boot. Only 4g.
Going along the line of the LS1 coil as it haw the module built in.
While waiting for all that, been doing the interior up.
Picked up some Recaro seats finally. Took a while to find some locally in the right style.
Made up some rails and fitted them up. Sit at a nice height.
Also got a Nardi Classic wheel.
Had to re drill and tap the boss kilt I had.
And was rather painful to get the horn button to fit. But definitely worth it in the end!
Next is to get a black rear set. Black headlining, and sort out some black door cards. Not sure if I want original style door cars, or something made up.