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I would go G180 rather than G200. My first gemini build was a G200 with a higher compression head and after replacing 2 blown head gaskets I converted it back to stock and run it in my son's daily. It is a great engine for lugging through city traffic in 5th and taking off in 2nd gear (or 3rd if you...

You could always take a wheel to the wreckers. Find a c/dore with a rear disk. Knock the axle studs in so they are out of the way and do a test fit.

If it fits buy the set up while you are there.

Not sure how you can put a TG headlight upside down given the shape. They are prone to dislodging from from the adjustment screw and pointing at weird angles. The fix is to crimp the slot that the screw rotates inside. TG lights, properly assembled, should adjust fine. There is nothing basically wro...

If the reostat is in the light switch then I guess we are talking TE or earlier. As Lok says it sounds line an earthing issue if your indicator is tracking through the lighting circuit in desperate search for an earth. An option is to run and extra earth wire to the wingnut that secures the back of ...

so pull it down? I did not consider this. Will there be enough play in it to do so? With out the support bracket/brace on the end of the master cylinder it has a lot of movement. Saw a young bloke with a TG that was missing the brace off the stock master. The end of the master kicked up 25mm when h...

You might be able to angle the booster down a few degrees at the firewall and that will easily give you an extra 5 mm. In fact if you make a support bracket for the free end of the master cylinder (which stock ones have and this model master needs) and bend the brake lines a bit, there could be enou...

I share some of the views but recognise it is a fundamental right of passage of all 18 year olds to shoot for pure horsepower regardless of the consequences. No one could talk me out of it in the day and I shouldn't even try to talk you out of it. It is a getting of wisdom and a journey that must be...

copb8 wrote:Just out of curiosity what is wrong with the pre ADR diff is it that it's just a borgwarner or is it something else?

Nothing really.

They do not have an attachment for a rear stabilizer and that is the only reason I swapped out my TX and TC BW rear ends.

Had to get keys cut for the wagon. 3 Different keys on a wagon for the ignition (japanese), side doors(?) and rear door (german) - pain in the butt. Anyway, the locksmith says the side door keys are the same as early commodore. I had a VC Commodore and recall that the round door latch on the door pi...

Wouldn't be that hard if you had the complete TE electricals

Find a saggy one.

No joke, if the upholstery padding is a bit sad the seat will be 20mm lower.

Pity you are not in Brisbane of you could go to see Elky and do a Goldilocks

Close but no.

The differences should be minor. Pretty sure the connectors to the dash changed between TD and TE.

It is not a problem if you change over all the bits that hang off the loom - dash, wiper motor, regulator, relay mounting box, fuse box, etc.

A sample:

Gemini heater hoses, Mackay Rubber Stock numbers CH1224, CH1225, CH1226

Ebay - $23.95, , $20.95, $19.95 free postage

Supercheap -$14.98, $11.65, $10.98 plus $8.95 courier (total for however much you order)

http://www.ozgemini.com/forums/non-tech/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=29703 Can't give you exactly what you are after but this thread will tell you how to modify stock engine mount brackets to centre the engine perfectly between the wheels. It will also show mod of the mount to raise of lower the engine ...

BAD 44u wrote:... No cop would pick the difference between a c1 and e1. ....

Make that one cop. My son is a cop and drives TX coupe with a 4ZC1 as his daily drive.