OzGemini.com

What he said. If I was in your shoes, I wouldn't be going all out spastic 150hp NA, but I'd focus on a sleeper with good torque. Depending on just how sleeper you want, you could look at a pre-pollution 161 head, oversize valves, 30/70 cam or similar, port clean-up, and chase up a four barrel downdr...

Heat wrapping and ceramic coating the headers and dump pipe to keep the cat converter hot would help too. As mentioned above, just get it tuned for emissions, it's easier to re-tune than change engines/turbos/looms/etc. It's worth bearing in mind that the C1 has smaller ports and valves to the E1 an...

Bring your wallet though, 25 boxes generally go for around $1000-$1500 (plus the custom bellhousing to fit), SR boxes are more like $500. Money well spent though IMO, I blew an SR20 box at Ebisu in the snow...

Heh, I have a Salisbury that likes seizing a brake when left sitting -_- Yeah the other lads are on it. Brake line thread is different somewhere, pretty sure there's a way to do it too much stuffing around but it's been ages since I did it. I think you keep the T-piece with the diff. As Lok said, ke...

Not to be "that guy" but you probably shouldn't paint 2 pack in your shed, that sh*t's dangerous, if my neighbour painted 2k I'd either clobber them or go to the EPA. Mind you for all I know you may have a properly sealed, filtered and certified booth set up. Just some friendly advice for ...

Bumping up a super old thread here, but I figured I'd update some old info after stumbling across this on a web search. Eagle Samaya became Isuzu Sports Eagle, or ISP, some time ago. They have a shop in the outskirts of Tokyo full of classic Isuzus ranging from PF (T series) Geminis, to Belletts, to...

Nice, that looks decent!

Does that interfere with the pedals? Looks like it sticks up into the footwell.

I'll second that ^ I also had issues with the shoes sliding around in one set of drums, they were "tight" but still had play from the housing or pins, or perhaps just poor wear.. I had to bin those whole assemblies in the end... but that's not likely to be your issue.

^ Hahaha, my drift car's button was a bit munted and if you jammed it in really hard it would stay there pretty much indefinitely. The only way to get the button to come out was to bash the handbrake down on its stopper repeatedly. It was mickey mouse for over a year until one day it gave up the gho...

Oh ... and suggest fit a new timing set (good japanese one like OSK). All original timing sets have about reached the time of life when they fail. This. Snapped a chain on the drift car a few years back, bad times were had. I'd done a very quick rebuild on it and the timing chain was the one thing ...

^ D1's are arguably the best bore/stroke ratio, but the heads are similar to C1 so not as good as E1 heads... and at the end of the day extra capacity will beat a good bore/stroke ratio in a straight line. +1 for E1 heads being way better, but they may cause a significant compression ratio drop, if ...

To further clarify, Australian petrol Geminis all had different diffs to what you guys have over there, so the Altra9 is no good to you either. I can't recall if you folks got the Japanese diff, or a local variant. If you got a Japanese diff then you could look on Yahoo Japan for a LSD centre, but I...

Mine's an MT8 I think (same as LT8) but I have no idea how to work the thing! If anyone can step me through it I'd be happy to share my tune, as long as I don't somehow delete it in the process...

I inboxed him some pics of my Piazza one last night, but after seeing his I'm not sure if it has one! Javi I think you can take timing out at idle to drop rpm, it's basically the opposite of the crude "cold idle" fix of advancing timing as some ECUs *cough my Piazza cough* do. Besides that...