what is this motor worth

kartracer1841 · Post by **kartracer1841** » Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:22 pm

what would this stuff be worth a i dont know

here are the details

2L bored 20thou
fully balanced
lighten fly wheel
twin 40mm side draughts on lynx mainfold
1.6 head with bigger valves
heavy duty clutch
stage 4 cam
extractors with 2.5 inch exhaust through with a dump pipe
electric distributor custom made from a nissian blue bird
bosh coil

this motor is fully rebuilt and has not be driven yet only been running for about 30 minutes to tune it

extras i have for sale

5 speed heavy duty clutch
exhaust system tuned to motor 2.5 inch
custom torrana radaitor to suit gemini
themo fan
elictric fuel pump to suit twin carbys
tg tacho dash

i am after a rought price on what it is worth in a whole

djbrooksy · Post by **djbrooksy** » Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:08 pm

sorry to shoot you down here but if you rebuilt it then you would have to pay me to take it

and if it sat there with no load for 30 minutes then you did not do the rings any favours

same as the cam was it new if so how did you run that in

archangel62 · Post by **archangel62** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:37 am

Did you bed it in as soon as you warmed it up? That's important.

Assuming it's built and bedded in correctly, the motor, including carbies, cam, elec. dizzy, clutch, should be worth $1500-$2000. Twin carbies are worth lots, and the cam, dizzy and clutch all add value.

As for the exhaust, sell it to meeeee! You know you want to. lol. Exhausts aren't motor specific, the tuning is only really relevant to the header itself

pat · Post by **pat** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:04 am

yea $1500-$2500 i think

Germinator · Post by **Germinator** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 10:42 am

yeah agreed, Rings NEED load right from the word go and you can't get that without driving it OR having it on a dyno (engine or chassis) so it can simulate load. Running the engine with no load for 20-30 minutes has reduced the chance of the rings bedding properly. They need load and wide throttle openings to push the rings evenly and firmly against the cylinder walls.

As I suggested before, to try running in an engine with a new cam that needs running in is defeating the purpose. I'd run the engine in using an old cam then run in the new cam or run the new cam in on an existing motor and once it has done that run in, fit the cam to your new engine.

As for an rebuilt engines value, it's worth only what someone will pay for it. Provide all the receipts and specs and a current dyno record. Put it on eBay and let the masses decide. Might get $2000 for it but it may only attract $600.

dbart1961 · Post by **dbart1961** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 11:20 am

Germinator wrote:yeah agreed, Rings NEED load right from the word go and you can't get that without driving it OR having it on a dyno (engine or chassis) so it can simulate load. Running the engine with no load for 20-30 minutes has reduced the chance of the rings bedding properly. They need load and wide throttle openings to push the rings evenly and firmly against the cylinder walls.

What are the consequences of running a motor load free while tuning it and getting everything right before taking it out onto the road? I did mine this way as the car was not finished and the engine was. I just regulated the revs and gave it quick bursts every now and then.
I don't seem to have any problems yet and it is not burning a scrap of oil. Should I be concerned about what is going to happen in the future??

Germinator · Post by **Germinator** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:13 pm

I was always taught to not run engines till the car was right to go. It's tempting to get it started just to see it run.

Not loading means the rings don't guarantee full contact with the bore wall and from the moment you fire it up it starts to wear down those sharp edges left from machining. The edges that you EVENLY wear down when running in, when BEDDING the rings. Once the sharp edges are worn the rate the rings bed is reduced so any spots that didn't get worn in the time the sharp edges were there are going to remain there.

The only real way to tell is the cylinder pressure readings or visual inspection. Isuzu specs state the compression pressure check must be done with a normalised engine, all spark plugs removed and each cylinder tested at a cranking speed of 300rpm minimum with the throttle wide open. The reading should be no less than 12.5kg/cm² (178psi). Variation should be less than ±6.5% of the mean value.

The unsealed rings are a source of blow-by and it shows as dark stains on the sides of the piston skirts.
An example of blow-by caused by incorrectly sealed rings and an example of a well sealed piston that is blow by free.

Liken it to using a new file. Does an awesome job while it's new but as it gets used the sharp tips get worn off. Incorrect filing action, not cleaning the swarf out, incorrect storage all add to rapidly reduce the effectiveness.
I clean mine then wrap each file in a lightly oiled rag and store them all in a drawer. Throwing loose files in a tool box blunts them quick time.

I recall a while back a 'disagreement' over forum members reasoning the need for catch cans in turbo engined cars and I still stand by what I said then, blow-by is not something 'fixed' by adding a catch can. If you have blow-by then you have power loss. Plain and simple. When you have enough blow-by to see oil coming out of the crankcase vents with a turbo engine it means something is not right, it means a significantly accelerated wear rate and the higher you boost the worse it gets. A well built turbo engine should not have any more blow-by than a N/A engine. Perhaps the answer is 3 ring pistons just can't do the job, the engine may need three compression rings where normally 2 would be fine. Most diesel engines run three compression rings to manage the combustion pressures.

kartracer1841 · Post by **kartracer1841** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:11 pm

djbrooksy wrote:sorry to shoot you down here but if you rebuilt it then you would have to pay me to take it

and if it sat there with no load for 30 minutes then you did not do the rings any favours

same as the cam was it new if so how did you run that in

it ran for ten minutes then i put load on the motor by doing a burnout out and then i took it for a small drive around my place. i am still runing it in but i had to tune it before i drove it just be be safe. when the car is finished i like take it for a big drive like up hills and s*#t. my boss did the bottom end i just bolted the head down and archangle62 did the cam timming and s*#t i just tuned it i will get a video of it soon if you dont belive me that is runs good

boony_124 · Post by **boony_124** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:17 pm

It is ok to run for a few mins. Start to check oil, coolant, check timing and for any leaks. If you got a oil pressure gauge check that. You DONT just get in it and drive. You dont drive until the engine is warmed up and then drive. Maybe 5mins. no more than 10mins

kartracer1841 · Post by **kartracer1841** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:10 pm

it was only run for 5min then i took it for a drive and put it under load

here is the short video of it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGPaVDEqh9E

TURGEM · Post by **TURGEM** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:18 pm

you dont drive an engine straight away especially with new cam, from what i can remember and still go by when starting rebuilt diesel engines, (with rebuild prices of up to 30,000) start it run it for half an hour while checking for leaks and nything obvious thats not right. dont let it idle for longer than a minute give it some sharp stabs with the throttle every now and then. once you are confident with the motor tke it for a spin and (drive it like you would normally drive) a bus motor for instance is WOT (wide open throttle) 90 percent of the time anyway so needless to say we try to break them hehe but they are tough.

new cams need time to wear in anyway at like 2000rpm for like 20 mins anyway so in saying that you cant just start it and drive it straight away anyway.

im pretty positive your motor will be a ok. just take it for a good run say maybe 100k's if your confident (keeping eye on temp and oil psi) the first gem motor i rebuillt rings and pistons i bed in in the driveway with sharp heavy raps on the throttle cuz i couldnt drive it. never had any problems with it in fact its my spare motor atm while building my G200 turbo.

it will be fine and enjoy

lukes_tg · Post by **lukes_tg** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 8:17 pm

i dont get it, it was 30 mins then 10 mins now 5?

djbrooksy · Post by **djbrooksy** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:07 pm

gald to see that im not the only one that pick up on that

kartracer1841 · Post by **kartracer1841** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 7:03 am

lukes_tg wrote:i dont get it, it was 30 mins then 10 mins now 5?

no the whole motor has been only running for a total of 30min is was 5 for a tune then a run it and a short drive

dbart1961 · Post by **dbart1961** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 11:19 am

kartracer1841 wrote:
djbrooksy wrote:sorry to shoot you down here but if you rebuilt it then you would have to pay me to take it

and if it sat there with no load for 30 minutes then you did not do the rings any favours

same as the cam was it new if so how did you run that in
it ran for ten minutes then i put load on the motor by doing a burnout out and then i took it for a small drive around my place. i am still runing it in but i had to tune it before i drove it just be be safe. when the car is finished i like take it for a big drive like up hills and s*#t. my boss did the bottom end i just bolted the head down and archangle62 did the cam timming and s*#t i just tuned it i will get a video of it soon if you dont belive me that is runs good

Fuk. I knew I forgot to do something !!