Installing headunit into gem
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Well you're right about that, and that's half the point of a fuse... But consider this. My mate's starter motor +12V shorted on his body when he was driving. Ofcourse there's no fuse there. Straight short, and the car completely died. No lights, no dash lights, no spark, thus car stalled and rolled to a halt without warning.
Took em a good hour or so I'd say, for them to look at it for awhile, give up, tried jump starting it (melted the jumper leads) call the RAA not knowing wtf happened, then realise it was shorting...
No fire. Not saying it can't happen, but in all honesty its not very likely.
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Disclaimer: Fuses are still a good idea. And put them as close to the battery as possible, as has been said.
Took em a good hour or so I'd say, for them to look at it for awhile, give up, tried jump starting it (melted the jumper leads) call the RAA not knowing wtf happened, then realise it was shorting...
No fire. Not saying it can't happen, but in all honesty its not very likely.
****
Disclaimer: Fuses are still a good idea. And put them as close to the battery as possible, as has been said.
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that just means that there was nothing around the point of arcing that could burn easily. (or s*#t doesn't burn )
I had the starter solenoid wire (someone fitted an extra solenoid in the engine bay, powered from the starter strap) short out against the firewall of the car just below where the clutch cable comes out, and it caught fire. there is still a scorch mark there now, and that was 5 years ago.
the only reason i saw that and didn't lose the car in a smoking heap is coz i was over the bay while someone else was cranking.
all fuses should be as close as possible to the power supply.
If you want to have a big fat gold fuse next to your amp, there is no danger in running 2 fuses, but you should probably make the 'show fuse' a higher rating, so it doesn't blow, and the one at the battery is the weak point.
all cabling should be run through grommets if passed through metal paneling, the vibrations from a idling engine is enough to cause a wire to rub through after a decent amount of time
I had the starter solenoid wire (someone fitted an extra solenoid in the engine bay, powered from the starter strap) short out against the firewall of the car just below where the clutch cable comes out, and it caught fire. there is still a scorch mark there now, and that was 5 years ago.
the only reason i saw that and didn't lose the car in a smoking heap is coz i was over the bay while someone else was cranking.
all fuses should be as close as possible to the power supply.
If you want to have a big fat gold fuse next to your amp, there is no danger in running 2 fuses, but you should probably make the 'show fuse' a higher rating, so it doesn't blow, and the one at the battery is the weak point.
all cabling should be run through grommets if passed through metal paneling, the vibrations from a idling engine is enough to cause a wire to rub through after a decent amount of time
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Now the eternal question... How the f**k do I fit my 120A cable into this pissy little fuse holder I bought... LOL
Oh well, I'll just have to massacre the cable down to size... Still get less voltage drop!
Oh well, I'll just have to massacre the cable down to size... Still get less voltage drop!
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You find me a 12mm diameter fuseholder and I'll happily use it
Cutting the wire down to size is fine it just drops the power rating of the wire.
Cutting the wire down to size is fine it just drops the power rating of the wire.
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Have a look herearchangel62 wrote:You find me a 12mm diameter fuseholder and I'll happily use it
Cutting the wire down to size is fine it just drops the power rating of the wire.
http://www.ryda.com.au/Aerpro-AP462-ANL ... /ap462.htm
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i have 3 200amp fuse holders in my car and the take 0guage cable. dont no wat the size difference is between that and 120A cable but i do know its the biggest cable they make for car stereos. there about 50 bucks for the holder and the fuse which is about the same as a curcuit breaker.
as for butin the fuse next to the battery
ive done many of stereos and even when iv had shortin probs its never burnt nething to the ground.
which makes sense for most cars come out with fuse boxes in the car. not near battery. as long as there is a fuse on the cable.
as soon as the power peaks it blows the fuse. the power moves at like spead of light. so it dont matter where it is on the cable by the time the fuse blows its made it pretty well all the way along.
even if u run 120amps of power through a 20 amp cable with a 20 amp fuse it will heat the cable but blow the fuse befor the it burns the car to the ground.
the main reasons for cars burning to the ground are either incorect fusing (ie. 20 amp cable 40 amp fuse. cable melts shorts sparks and burns before theres 2much power to blow the fuse)
and no fuse.
well thats my 2 cents worthlol
peace dan
as for butin the fuse next to the battery
ive done many of stereos and even when iv had shortin probs its never burnt nething to the ground.
which makes sense for most cars come out with fuse boxes in the car. not near battery. as long as there is a fuse on the cable.
as soon as the power peaks it blows the fuse. the power moves at like spead of light. so it dont matter where it is on the cable by the time the fuse blows its made it pretty well all the way along.
even if u run 120amps of power through a 20 amp cable with a 20 amp fuse it will heat the cable but blow the fuse befor the it burns the car to the ground.
the main reasons for cars burning to the ground are either incorect fusing (ie. 20 amp cable 40 amp fuse. cable melts shorts sparks and burns before theres 2much power to blow the fuse)
and no fuse.
well thats my 2 cents worthlol
peace dan
TE_SOUND_VAN wrote:
as for butin the fuse next to the battery
ive done many of stereos and even when iv had shortin probs its never burnt nething to the ground.
which makes sense for most cars come out with fuse boxes in the car. not near battery. as long as there is a fuse on the cable.
thats why you have a fusable link thats within 30cm of the battery on the accessorys wire on the gemini.
you are not understanding the basics.
if the cable shorts out between the battery and the fuse it will not blow the fuse unless the wire is part of a complete curcuit.
if you are running an amp and the amp is ON the fuse will blow.
if the amp is OFF and there is a short, the fuse will not blow.
i read your post - your notSICKTG wrote:how am i stupid?
most others cant understand how if an unfused battery link shorts against any part of the body it will overheat melt the shielding and most probably catch on fire. if you dont believe me go to the insurance auctions and buy your self a cheap electrical write-off from when one of you 12v masters has attemped spotlights or amp into cars everything off the battery or ignition etc (high amp curcuits) should have a fuse on it as close as possible to the source of power not the other end and select and appropriate gauge wire and fuse for the load you are running
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- Chatterbox
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just a lil note that i learnt recently, i had my head unit running off the old radio wiring, and discovered that i would blow fuses daily, after 2 weeks of this i ran the whole car over with a test light and found that my head unit was drawing too much current blowing the fuses, as when i turned it past 18 id blow fuses. so if you are intending on running decent speakers i say run a nice thick wire direct from the battery, and yes with the fuse close to the battery.
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- A Nice Guy
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ive seen a car burn because of an unfused battery link.. the dude learnt his lessonbooosty wrote:i read your post - your notSICKTG wrote:how am i stupid?
most others cant understand how if an unfused battery link shorts against any part of the body it will overheat melt the shielding and most probably catch on fire. if you dont believe me go to the insurance auctions and buy your self a cheap electrical write-off from when one of you 12v masters has attemped spotlights or amp into cars everything off the battery or ignition etc (high amp curcuits) should have a fuse on it as close as possible to the source of power not the other end and select and appropriate gauge wire and fuse for the load you are running