12 inch subs x 2 + quieter than one... wtf

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IWANNATXROTOR
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12 inch subs x 2 + quieter than one... wtf

Post by IWANNATXROTOR »

i dunno if its the head unit which has just been changed, but basically thats what im guessin cos all i did was leave the amp settings as they were from the old head unit.. bolted the new ones in and then i have the problem of.. if i disconnect one sub.. the bass picks up nicely.. as soon as i hook up the second sub.. the other sib slack off but then both are going.. i dont get it.. anyone know if its an internal thing in the clarion head unit i have?
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pig75
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Post by pig75 »

Sounds like the sub is wired out of phase try reversing the polarity of one sub
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82 Gemii
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Post by 82 Gemii »

you could be over loading your amp there for reducing power out put,
TDgemoz
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Post by TDgemoz »

if he was overloading his sub why would it of just started now??
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IZU069

Post by IZU069 »

Out of phase x2.
82 Gemii
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Post by 82 Gemii »

TDgemoz wrote:if he was overloading his sub why would it of just started now??
i said he could be over loading his amp not sub. and why would it be doing it now?

maybe cos when ever he hooks up the second sub the bass level isn't as high or deep.
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Post by Gene FJ20DEBT »

IZU069 wrote:Out of phase x2.
x3

has happened to me a few times
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TheyDontWantMusic
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Post by TheyDontWantMusic »

depending on how the subs are positioned in the boot, they could be canceling each other out to some extent due to standing wave, wave lengths, etc.
IWANNATXROTOR
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Post by IWANNATXROTOR »

nice work PIG picked it in one.. dunno how the fork that happened! now my brain is wobbling round nicely!! :)
IZU069

Post by IZU069 »

Tee hee... Did you fix it by swapping the power cables to the battery? That often solves it being quieter when both switched on.

Now to mount that flink box.
The post-mounted Toyota unit may suit the boot. Then the KE/VN/VP box up the front.....

Oh yeah - I figured out that a 1F capacitor has about 100 Watt-seconds of energy. A 7AH battery has ~100W-hrs of energy - a mere 3,600 more.
So your much larger battery craps all over any capacitor (assuming similar internal resistances).
Gotta love those caps! LOL!
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Post by SICKTG »

IZU069 wrote:Tee hee... Did you fix it by swapping the power cables to the battery? That often solves it being quieter when both switched on.

Now to mount that flink box.
The post-mounted Toyota unit may suit the boot. Then the KE/VN/VP box up the front.....

Oh yeah - I figured out that a 1F capacitor has about 100 Watt-seconds of energy. A 7AH battery has ~100W-hrs of energy - a mere 3,600 more.
So your much larger battery craps all over any capacitor (assuming similar internal resistances).
Gotta love those caps! LOL!
in saying that i fitted a 2 farad cap in the mrs commodore as it was running over 1500 wrms and the cap was alot cheaper than getting another battery and it stopped it from running under 12v :wink:
IZU069

Post by IZU069 »

SICKTG wrote:... the [2 farad] cap was alot cheaper than getting another battery
Where did you get a 2F cap for under $30?!
Not that it has anywhere near the same performance, but for under $30....

Can it be connected direct, or does it need pre-charging?
(Got a part number or its details?)
SICKTG
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Post by SICKTG »

IZU069 wrote:
SICKTG wrote:... the [2 farad] cap was alot cheaper than getting another battery
Where did you get a 2F cap for under $30?!
Not that it has anywhere near the same performance, but for under $30....

Can it be connected direct, or does it need pre-charging?
(Got a part number or its details?)
it was a response unit the commodore has a 550 CCA battery (only a month old) alternator was in very good cond) and it was still dropping under 12v and turning the source unit off! the cap didnt need charging it was directly connected i think it was around 100 bucks but solved all problems lights dont dim now as i have said before i was always of the belief that caps did nothing but now im not so sure oh and when running in an spl comp we gained an extra DB by disconnecting the cap on a term lab go figure :roll:
IZU069

Post by IZU069 »

So it wasn't cheaper...
And I can assure you that a $25-$30 12V 7AH battery will be more effective. (ie - it will hold the voltage over 1,000 times as long)

I wonder how the capacitor protects itself when first connected - a timed circuit perhaps? Or high ESR (resistance)?
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Post by SICKTG »

IZU069 wrote:So it wasn't cheaper...
And I can assure you that a $25-$30 12V 7AH battery will be more effective. (ie - it will hold the voltage over 1,000 times as long)

I wonder how the capacitor protects itself when first connected - a timed circuit perhaps? Or high ESR (resistance)?
im not smart enough to know a 12v 7AH battery will be better i just grabbed what was readily available :wink:
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