Stock RB dizzy internals

Technical Disscusion Forum will be used for in depth threads that are moved here by a mod/admin member.... everyone is welcome to add their input, but only on topic replys
Post Reply
Pricey
Regular
Posts: 209
Joined: Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:50 pm
Location: Perth WA

Post by Pricey »

Does anyone know the part numbers to the RB reluctor and module? I'd rather get some fresh ones and can't seem to find any info about part numbers or links to new stock :)
77tc_coupe
New Member
Posts: 44
Joined: Thu Jan 28, 2010 3:14 pm
Location: Oakden, Adelaide, SA

Post by 77tc_coupe »

No but i got a quote on them and it was $135 for the reluctor and like $165 for the ignitor or something like this....much cheaper at the wreckers haha
Metalhead_07
Regular
Posts: 267
Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 5:48 pm
Location: latrobe valley

Post by Metalhead_07 »

Greengem20B wrote: Centre Shafts - G series on left - RB on right

Image

Now its time to remove the old parts from G series dizzy taking care to mark which spring came from which weight and what end of the spring it was attached to,also mark the inside of the casing just to be sure - then slide RB shaft into the same position G series shaft came from....Use G series springs when refitting...now drop carrier plate back into housing.

Image

From here,I first installed the reluctor back on the carrier plate,then reattached the vac. advance linkage....now the outer casing needs to be modded to fit ignitor...basically rotated 90 Deg. from original RB location.I drilled 2 x 4mm holes on the sides as well as 2 notches for the mounting bracket to sit in as well as a new piece for the wiring grommet to slide into ........BE SURE TO USE SOME SILICON HEAT TRANSFER PASTE ON THE REAR OF IGNITOR TO PREVENT OVERHEATING OF UNIT!!!!!!!!!!

Image

Once the ignitor sits inside the housing and old dizzy cap fits on,spin the shaft by hand to make sure nothing is contacting...at this point the air gap should be set - between 0.2mm - 0.4mm....avoid steel feeler gauges as they can damage the magnetic field!!!!

Finished product should look something like this......

Image


It is just a simple matter of reinstalling in the car now.....connect red wire to loom side of ballast resistor and black to the Neg (-) side of coil.Check timing and start the car.....

I have noticed the car does start a lot easier and idles cold easier..quicker pickup on the highway (110km+) and revs out a lot smoother.

Hope this helps out with the conversion

Cheers

Todd.
How does the center shaft come out. I have removed the center screw but it still wont budge...
Thanks
Woody
Metalhead_07
Regular
Posts: 267
Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 5:48 pm
Location: latrobe valley

Post by Metalhead_07 »

Anyone... I don't wanna break something trying to get it out... Need it out soon so i don't forget how I reassemble it...
User avatar
LOK15
Gemini Master
Posts: 5452
Joined: Thu May 19, 2005 3:30 pm
Location: lok.lives@bundamba. ipswich.qld.au.earth

Post by LOK15 »

wiggle and pull , probably frozen with grime
Getting too old for this s*#t!!
Post Reply