Stock RB dizzy internals

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IZU069

Post by IZU069 »

Germy said "Tridon part number TIM045". I have a pic of a TIM081 that looks the same but has eyelet terminations to the IgCoil, and only "holey tabs" for the pickup (reluctor sensor/coil). And there are more TIMs with similar looking ignitors, but are they equivalent? I suspect all are for reluctors (not Hall or Optic)...

But the RB ignitor has current limiting - it seems to handle low impedance coils (eg 0.3-0.4 Ohm primaries - ie, Bosch MEC717 and other high-performance IgCoils).
Not all ignitors have current limiting. EG - maybe not Shuttle/Rodeo/Jackaroo external ignitors (4ZB1, 4ZC1, 4ZD1?) which have ballast resistors for the coil. If they were current limited, the ballast resistor should not be required. I don't know about other external ignitors.

RB-equivalent reluctor sensors with ignitors exist in other vehicles. I have one (maybe off a Daihatsu) where the ignitor is thinner and of pressed steel (same mounting holes) and the pickup is hard wired to it (not to screw terminals like the RB).

If my remcas & sicas succeed (ie raw Rb-gEM CAS, optionally with Sequential/wasted/single spark outputs), then I recommend the RB guts conversion for the Gemini dizzy. (remcas & sicas add to the RB guts.)
Even though they do not require the RB ignitor, I recommend fitting it because (1), they should accept reluctor or ignitor inputs, & (2) if the sicas/remcas fails, you can disconnect them, replace the dizzy cap & rotor and fall back to standard RB ignition. (Since the remcas is likely to be a locked dizzy (1 Ref & 4 Sync pulses for EMSs), such fallback requires unlocking with functioning flyweights & vacuum advance.)

More FYI (geez!) - I now use the RB coil harness for my ignition (coils) since it means quick connection, and they're polarised (can't connect the wrong way...).
These 2-pin connectors use common 6.35mm spade terminals - common crimp connectors can be used if you don't have the right mating connector.
(Two wires - Black-Red - ignition power from main harness to eyelet (coil+) to ignitor; and Black - ignitor (switched, ie equivalent to points) to eyelet (coil-) to tacho (if used).

You may also notice that Germy's BR reluctor mentioned above is strikingly similar to the RB :lol: :lol:. (The BR is merely the dyslexic version.)
geminilover3236
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Post by geminilover3236 »

picked up my rb dizzy today, $65, other wreckerwas $66. lol. will start on it some time or another. bit busy finishing school atm. Forgot to grab the coil tho :(
geminilover3236
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Post by geminilover3236 »

okay, this may be a n00by question but it's all that is holding me back from getting this installed. What is the air gap and how exactly do I set it?
Germinator
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Post by Germinator »

It's 0.2 to 0.4mm measured with a BRASS feeler gauge. Verify it by checking the dwell angle which should be 40° to 50° with the engine @ 1500rpm.
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geminilover3236
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Post by geminilover3236 »

cheers germ, ill pick up some brass feeler gauges tomoz and give it a try, also getting an RB coil.
geminilover3236
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Post by geminilover3236 »

those rb ignition modules s*#t emselves. mine fell apart after being installed, the glue that holds it together just melted and it all just fell apart. bosch here we go. I paid a whopping $60 for mine. had quotes of $50 but to far away.

ATTENTION, ppl with the bosch ignitor, where a bouts did you mount it? I have just installed mine onto that metal box near the distrubuter and I'm not sure if it is earthing there because I am not getting a start :( and I have the wires setup the right way round.
geminilover3236
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Post by geminilover3236 »

geminilover3236 wrote:those rb ignition modules s*#t emselves. mine fell apart after being installed, the glue that holds it together just melted and it all just fell apart. bosch here we go. I paid a whopping $60 for mine. had quotes of $50 but to far away.

ATTENTION, ppl with the bosch ignitor, where a bouts did you mount it? I have just installed mine onto that metal box near the distrubuter and I'm not sure if it is earthing there because I am not getting a start :( and I have the wires setup the right way round.
dw about that, I fixed it, problem was the grounding. I ran a wire over to the distributer housing then also the ballast resistor must be hooked up for the bosch ignitor to work. Im back on the road.
lukes_tg
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Post by lukes_tg »

fix pix? a couple dont work
Image

t3/t4 haltech powered forged 4ze1 gemini in the build
lynn1221
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Post by lynn1221 »

Do RB distributer internals fit inside a RWD gemini dizy housing?

You would need to replace the shaft as well?
geminilover3236
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Post by geminilover3236 »

Yes, they fit, you do need to replace the shaft.
sammy
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Post by sammy »

Is it okay to use a GT40 coil with the RB internals? Only that I have one spare that could be put to use....
IZU069

Post by IZU069 »

The RB ignitor will tolerate any ignition coil.
joeythehungarian
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Post by joeythehungarian »

hey just curious i just tried this modification and broom it fired first go with timing out only 3 deg. adjusted and took for a drive perfect. and when i got back i adjusted the gap to about .2mm and i might of touched the ignither then the bloody thing wouldnt start and i cant get a spark i think i killed the ignighter but then i tried another ignither well several from the wreckers and still not working. maybe the reluctor is dead and i stuck my meter on the out put of it and cranked the engine and got about 1/2 a volt and check ohms came back at about 167ohms. does this sound correct.
joeythehungarian
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Post by joeythehungarian »

Ok I worked it out. It probably was a dead pickup. It probably just died for some unknown reason but I got a measure of about 160 ohms. I went back to to wreckers and looked around and found something interesting. That daewoo of the same year roughly also use the exact same pickup and ignighter but its more robust and doesnt need heat paste and I would expect the same base plate. So if you can't find a RB then have a look at the daewoo .......
Germinator
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Post by Germinator »

The setup used in the RB can also be found in a few other car brand distributors. I have been running a number of the reluctor dissy set ups in a number of engines and not once have I had a failure. I don't think they are any more prone to failure than any other HEI device.

The ONLY reason I'd convert from a self contained internal igniter to an external one is if I needed it for an ESC based EFI ignition. Why would you go from a neat tidy PROTECTED internal mount unit to something exposed and needing a sub loom to connect back to the dissy? I think it's complicating things to do that.

For any application requiring an external module, keeping the distance between the igniter module and the reluctor to the minimum is important. Ideally making an aluminium bracket that is attached to the dissy housing is the preferred way. It acts as a heat sink (you are installing using the heat paste right?) and the wiring is short. Also, make sure all connecting wiring that exits the dissy housing is electrically shielded or you risk electrical noise contamination from other components.

One other thing, some applications require an earth link between the dissy case and the electronics earth, some require an isolated earth. Make sure you know which is required and wire it accordingly. A lot of EFI applications use multiple earth links, and it's for a good reason. Don't skimp!! If the schematics show you should be using extra engine earth links, use them! One if the hardest things to track down is faults caused by an intermittent bad earth.
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