Stock RB dizzy internals

Technical Disscusion Forum will be used for in depth threads that are moved here by a mod/admin member.... everyone is welcome to add their input, but only on topic replys
Post Reply
Greengem20B
Regular
Posts: 665
Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2005 12:05 pm
Location: Gold Coast

Post by Greengem20B »

Now I follow.......

Didnt notice that on the first dizzy I did..just did a second one and did notice that piece had deteriated on the RB...

Also noted one RB had 10 stamped on it and the second had 11..does that mean different advance?

Image

Cheers

Todd.
Josh
Long Term Member
Posts: 826
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 9:45 pm
Location: Port Kennedy

Post by Josh »

Yeah it does
Higher the number the more advance
If you got a dizzy out of a TX you would find they are about 14
Image
User avatar
Bugle
Long Term Member
Posts: 1349
Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2005 12:32 am
Location: Sydney

Post by Bugle »

I got 2 RB dizzys both 10, both came from unleaded models, maybe leaded ones have more advance?
Got the G161Z dizzy to convert from a TE and it had 9.5, original dizzy out of my TF has 9.5 too
Image
F3ARED
Moderator
Posts: 2705
Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2005 11:55 pm
Location: Melbourne, Victoria

Post by F3ARED »

Where it said connect pos to positive side of coil loom - where exactly is everyone connecting it, and why not straight onto the pos terminal?
Previously GeminiCoupe/GeminiRollingShell/SCAR3D/Jonnoisac#nt

78 TD Gemini Sedan - R.I.P
81 TE Gemini Sedan
Greengem20B
Regular
Posts: 665
Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2005 12:05 pm
Location: Gold Coast

Post by Greengem20B »

I connected mine to the power in wire for the ballast resistor....the end closest to the driver side guard.

Todd.
QLD - Home Of The Modified Gemini
F3ARED
Moderator
Posts: 2705
Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2005 11:55 pm
Location: Melbourne, Victoria

Post by F3ARED »

Pretty sure ballast resistor connects to the neg terminal doesnt it? I removed my ballast resistor, got told it wouldnt work with it there...

Maybe i should just use the Bosch EFI coil ive got on the shelf at home.

Nick-
Previously GeminiCoupe/GeminiRollingShell/SCAR3D/Jonnoisac#nt

78 TD Gemini Sedan - R.I.P
81 TE Gemini Sedan
User avatar
Bugle
Long Term Member
Posts: 1349
Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2005 12:32 am
Location: Sydney

Post by Bugle »

The resistor goes on the + side. You'd wire it in before the resistor rather than straight to the coil terminal so that the igniter gets 12V. But since you got rid of the resistor that doesn't matter.
Image
F3ARED
Moderator
Posts: 2705
Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2005 11:55 pm
Location: Melbourne, Victoria

Post by F3ARED »

So straight to pos and it should be fine?
Previously GeminiCoupe/GeminiRollingShell/SCAR3D/Jonnoisac#nt

78 TD Gemini Sedan - R.I.P
81 TE Gemini Sedan
User avatar
Bugle
Long Term Member
Posts: 1349
Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2005 12:32 am
Location: Sydney

Post by Bugle »

Yep, but dunno if the standard coil is suitable for 12v all the time, I just put the RB coil in, or that other coil you've got would probably do it too.
Image
IZU069

Post by IZU069 »

FYI - it seems the RB ignitor has current limiting. I got a 0.3 Ohm Bosch MEC717 coil from an RB and ran it for a week in my RB-guts Wasp. (I only removed it because of erratic tacho operation - I'll fix that next decade.)

Hence you can probably use any coil, and without ballast.

FYI - my Wasp cranks & starts on an 8V battery, and I got home last week on a 7.2V battery. (4ZE1 Reduction starter; RB reluctor & ignitor with blue coil; NGK (of course!!) BP6ES splugs @ 1.1mm.)
wagswill
Will_with_Green_TD_Wagon
Posts: 214
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2009 4:11 pm
Location: Adelaide
Contact:

Post by wagswill »

where exactly do i need to put the heat sink paste?

got it all ready to go. now have it in bits for a clean (metal filings etc from making holes), then plan to wire it up!

should i open the RB standard 10 degree mech advance gap up to 12 or 14 deg while i have it out? cos the centre shaft i pulled out was a 12 - 14. the little insulator thing is totally gone from mine, so maybe i should only open it out to 11 or something?
Green and orange TD wagons, '75 TX coupe
IZU069

Post by IZU069 »

Don't worry about the heatsink paste - should be ok.
wagswill
Will_with_Green_TD_Wagon
Posts: 214
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2009 4:11 pm
Location: Adelaide
Contact:

Post by wagswill »

ok so i got the dizzy in, but the car won't start. I'm guessing it's the ignitor module, since i read somewhere that people reckon they never work again once pulling them out of the RB dizzy. is there a way i can test the ignitor?
Green and orange TD wagons, '75 TX coupe
IZU069

Post by IZU069 »

Will_with_Green_TD_Wagon wrote:people reckon they never work again once pulling them out of the RB dizzy
I thought the same after my first didn't work, but later it worked without problem. (Maybe I wired wrong?) And I haven't had had problems with any since.

Make sure that +12V is supplied to your IgCoil (coil+) and via the black-red wired to the ignitor (B terminal).
And the ignitor's C wire (black) goes to coil-
The ignitor's body (metal; heatsink etc) must be earthed to 0V (battery-) via the dizzy body, engine, etc.

To test the ignitor, get a small battery (1 - 1.5V) and briefly hook it across the ignitor's input (from the reluctor) with + to +. The + terminal (with reddish reluctor wire) is usually downwards.
This should fire the coil, or any load connected to +12V and earthed via the ignitor's "C" terminal/wire (black). (I used a 50W QH bulb.)

But DO NOT leave the 1.5V battery connected too long - it can destroy the ignitor.
The ignitor will only fire if the battery is connected properly (+ to +; - to -).
I tested with the reluctor disconnected, but it might work with it still connected, or even with the battery in series with the reluctor (ie, undo top "-" lead only and insert battery between the whitish reluctor wire and ignitor screw/terminal (with + to white reluctor).
Germinator
Long Term Member
Posts: 5903
Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2006 6:13 pm
Location: Albury/Wodonga
Contact:

Post by Germinator »

Just for everyone's benefit, the BR reluctor module is available aftermarket.

Tridon part number TIM045

No need to wire up an external module if you are running a carby or an EFI that doesn't require a special ignition module. Just use the RB internal module and keep the whole package neatly inside the dissy housing.
.

I do not give permission for anyone to reproduce content from my posts.
Reposting any of my forum posts (or substantial parts thereof) breaches the copyright act.
Post Reply