Stock RB dizzy internals
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I have just finished doing this conversion and thought I would post a few pics that go along with it to hopefully clarify a few of the questions I came across....
First of all - the donor Distributor from the RB Gemini.......I paid $35 and had quotes for up to $80.
Start by carefully removing the inernal parts starting with the ignition module screwed in through the side casing - then carefully remove the reluctor (undo the two screws similar to how points are retained) - Take care not to damage the 2 wires joining these pieces...
You can now remove the base carrier plate....disconnect vac. advance linkage and hold down tabs and gently lift out to now expose advance weights and springs....
Remove the two springs from the weights and undo the screw that holds main shaft in place....carefully slide centre shaft off.All these pieces are now ready to be fitted back into G series dizzy...
Carrier Plates - G series on left - RB on right
Centre Shafts - G series on left - RB on right
Now its time to remove the old parts from G series dizzy taking care to mark which spring came from which weight and what end of the spring it was attached to,also mark the inside of the casing just to be sure - then slide RB shaft into the same position G series shaft came from....Use G series springs when refitting...now drop carrier plate back into housing.
From here,I first installed the reluctor back on the carrier plate,then reattached the vac. advance linkage....now the outer casing needs to be modded to fit ignitor...basically rotated 90 Deg. from original RB location.I drilled 2 x 4mm holes on the sides as well as 2 notches for the mounting bracket to sit in as well as a new piece for the wiring grommet to slide into ........BE SURE TO USE SOME SILICON HEAT TRANSFER PASTE ON THE REAR OF IGNITOR TO PREVENT OVERHEATING OF UNIT!!!!!!!!!!
Once the ignitor sits inside the housing and old dizzy cap fits on,spin the shaft by hand to make sure nothing is contacting...at this point the air gap should be set - between 0.2mm - 0.4mm....avoid steel feeler gauges as they can damage the magnetic field!!!!
Finished product should look something like this......
It is just a simple matter of reinstalling in the car now.....connect red wire to loom side of ballast resistor and black to the Neg (-) side of coil.Check timing and start the car.....
I have noticed the car does start a lot easier and idles cold easier..quicker pickup on the highway (110km+) and revs out a lot smoother.
Hope this helps out with the conversion
Cheers
Todd.
First of all - the donor Distributor from the RB Gemini.......I paid $35 and had quotes for up to $80.
Start by carefully removing the inernal parts starting with the ignition module screwed in through the side casing - then carefully remove the reluctor (undo the two screws similar to how points are retained) - Take care not to damage the 2 wires joining these pieces...
You can now remove the base carrier plate....disconnect vac. advance linkage and hold down tabs and gently lift out to now expose advance weights and springs....
Remove the two springs from the weights and undo the screw that holds main shaft in place....carefully slide centre shaft off.All these pieces are now ready to be fitted back into G series dizzy...
Carrier Plates - G series on left - RB on right
Centre Shafts - G series on left - RB on right
Now its time to remove the old parts from G series dizzy taking care to mark which spring came from which weight and what end of the spring it was attached to,also mark the inside of the casing just to be sure - then slide RB shaft into the same position G series shaft came from....Use G series springs when refitting...now drop carrier plate back into housing.
From here,I first installed the reluctor back on the carrier plate,then reattached the vac. advance linkage....now the outer casing needs to be modded to fit ignitor...basically rotated 90 Deg. from original RB location.I drilled 2 x 4mm holes on the sides as well as 2 notches for the mounting bracket to sit in as well as a new piece for the wiring grommet to slide into ........BE SURE TO USE SOME SILICON HEAT TRANSFER PASTE ON THE REAR OF IGNITOR TO PREVENT OVERHEATING OF UNIT!!!!!!!!!!
Once the ignitor sits inside the housing and old dizzy cap fits on,spin the shaft by hand to make sure nothing is contacting...at this point the air gap should be set - between 0.2mm - 0.4mm....avoid steel feeler gauges as they can damage the magnetic field!!!!
Finished product should look something like this......
It is just a simple matter of reinstalling in the car now.....connect red wire to loom side of ballast resistor and black to the Neg (-) side of coil.Check timing and start the car.....
I have noticed the car does start a lot easier and idles cold easier..quicker pickup on the highway (110km+) and revs out a lot smoother.
Hope this helps out with the conversion
Cheers
Todd.
Last edited by Greengem20B on Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Cheers....
To work out where to cut the housing,first install the reluctor on the base plate then sit ignitor in dizzy and move it nearly 90 Deg clockwise until the ignitors backing/mounting plate sits flush against the slight recesses inside the housing....these areas I have marked with a blue square.
With the wiring grommet....I left this til last and merely drilled a 9mm hole through casing and cut through to open it up.Make sure its deep enough to allow grommet to sit flush with top edge on housing...otherwise dizzy cap will not sit flush. This area is marked inside the red circle.
I can take further pics if they are still needed.....
Cheers
Todd.
To work out where to cut the housing,first install the reluctor on the base plate then sit ignitor in dizzy and move it nearly 90 Deg clockwise until the ignitors backing/mounting plate sits flush against the slight recesses inside the housing....these areas I have marked with a blue square.
With the wiring grommet....I left this til last and merely drilled a 9mm hole through casing and cut through to open it up.Make sure its deep enough to allow grommet to sit flush with top edge on housing...otherwise dizzy cap will not sit flush. This area is marked inside the red circle.
I can take further pics if they are still needed.....
Cheers
Todd.
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Just grab the coil off the RB Gemini you pull the dizzy out of. It's JDM tyte, yo
Greengem that stopper thingo for the top of the shaft looks a bit farked, the one on the Gemini dizzy I started with was stuffed too with the bit that is usually making contact having disintegrated.
The RB dizzy one seems to be nylon and is more durable than the black plastic one on the G161 dizzy. Pretty easy to transfer it over..
Greengem that stopper thingo for the top of the shaft looks a bit farked, the one on the Gemini dizzy I started with was stuffed too with the bit that is usually making contact having disintegrated.
The RB dizzy one seems to be nylon and is more durable than the black plastic one on the G161 dizzy. Pretty easy to transfer it over..
- Rodeobob
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Bugle wrote:Just grab the coil off the RB Gemini you pull the dizzy out of. It's JDM tyte, yo
Thats what i would do. Grab the coil thats with the dizzy. Dont even unplug them, unbolt the dizzy unbolt the coil and cut the wiring body side of the plug between the coil and loom.
Ive done that with all the electronic dizzys ive collected.
Im sure the Gemini coild would be fine with the RB internals if you just remove the ballast resistor. If youve got an electric fuel pump Gemmy you need to be sure that the ballast resistor is still on that circuit.
No one has mentioned the plugs.
Open your spark plugs up to a 1.1mm gap.
Bob.
Piazza for sale, black, manual, in fair condition with heaps of parts $3500 (parts not for sale seperately)
DO NOT PRIVATE MESSAGE ME FOR ASSISTANCE, IM AN ASSHOLE YOU WILL GET AN EAR BASHING, ASK IN THE GENERAL FORUM.
DO NOT PRIVATE MESSAGE ME FOR ASSISTANCE, IM AN ASSHOLE YOU WILL GET AN EAR BASHING, ASK IN THE GENERAL FORUM.
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"Greengem that stopper thingo for the top of the shaft looks a bit farked"
Not entirely sure what you mean...the little black cap that fits inside the top of the main shaft??
Josh....can you tell me where you ran the wires for the external module?
My first RB ignitor died so I bought one of the Bosch ones and cant get a spark happening....
Cheers
Todd.
Not entirely sure what you mean...the little black cap that fits inside the top of the main shaft??
Josh....can you tell me where you ran the wires for the external module?
My first RB ignitor died so I bought one of the Bosch ones and cant get a spark happening....
Cheers
Todd.
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Nah the plastic bit which goes over the knob sticking out of the bottom shaft to stop the rotation of the top shaft ie to stop advancing ignition past a certain point. They wear out at the home position, but the RB ones don't. So I swapped the RB one over to the Gemini shaft.Greengem20B wrote: Not entirely sure what you mean...the little black cap that fits inside the top of the main shaft??
Another pic