What offset is better for a Gemini
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If you're unsure, ask us before you buy, you can't change a bad offset!
I have SL/X alloy rims on my TE diesel, pretty sure they are et35 but I'll go double check and measure the clearance between the rim edge and the shock at ride height and at fully jacked up height. That will give us a basis to calculate all other rims for correct clearance. It won't mean it's the be all end all for some rims that are close fits, those will still need hands on final checks.
I have SL/X alloy rims on my TE diesel, pretty sure they are et35 but I'll go double check and measure the clearance between the rim edge and the shock at ride height and at fully jacked up height. That will give us a basis to calculate all other rims for correct clearance. It won't mean it's the be all end all for some rims that are close fits, those will still need hands on final checks.
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The angle difference between operating height and fully jacked up makes little difference to the clearance distance. You'll find it reasonably common for FWD offset rims to touch at fully jacked position but clear at normal operating height.
You really need to check it both at normal operating height and at fully off the ground. After all you can't tighten wheel nuts while it's pressing the wheel against the shock absorber! If it hits and someone jacks up the car from under the body, not from under the lower control arm, you risk damage to the shock absorber, they are NOT designed for tyres pressing against them sideways! That bends shafts.
You really need to check it both at normal operating height and at fully off the ground. After all you can't tighten wheel nuts while it's pressing the wheel against the shock absorber! If it hits and someone jacks up the car from under the body, not from under the lower control arm, you risk damage to the shock absorber, they are NOT designed for tyres pressing against them sideways! That bends shafts.
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i fully measured everything i could before buying my wheels. they dont hit the shock at all when up and my shocks are inflatable so they are quite a bit wider than standard shock absorbers and i still have around 10-20mm space.
the offset may suit fwd but i dont think you can call them fwd wheels.
they fit my car perfectly and its clearly not fwd
the offset may suit fwd but i dont think you can call them fwd wheels.
they fit my car perfectly and its clearly not fwd
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Inflatable? Do you mean rear air pump up shocks? That's not such an issue at the back, it's the front shock that hits on FWD wheel rims.
Are you saying that your 18"x7.5 et40mm wheels don't touch the front shocks at all, not even when jacked up? Are you using wheel spacers with standard Gemini disc brakes or are the front brakes changed from Gemini standards?
Are you saying that your 18"x7.5 et40mm wheels don't touch the front shocks at all, not even when jacked up? Are you using wheel spacers with standard Gemini disc brakes or are the front brakes changed from Gemini standards?
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Can clear in one position and foul at the other.. thats a big enough difference for me.Germinator wrote:The angle difference between operating height and fully jacked up makes little difference to the clearance distance. You'll find it reasonably common for FWD offset rims to touch at fully jacked position but clear at normal operating height.
Last edited by leviathan937 on Sun Jul 18, 2010 6:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If it ain't broke, then it DOESNT HAVE ENOUGH FEATURES YET!!!
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18x7.5 +40 offset.
i have the shocks front and back my hose also run on the wheel side and dont touch.
as far as i know i have stock brakes. no spacers they fit well. i think it may be easier to fit 18s rather than 17s cause of the height buys you more distance from the shock
i have the shocks front and back my hose also run on the wheel side and dont touch.
as far as i know i have stock brakes. no spacers they fit well. i think it may be easier to fit 18s rather than 17s cause of the height buys you more distance from the shock
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hey mate my gemi runs 19inch savanahs in 8inch wide & personally i wish i didnt get them if u want it to sit nicely & not look like a monster truck then go maybe 18'z. In saying that. the car had 18's on it & had lipped guards all round & was dumped on super lows with coils cut out of them (I didnt do this). To do this with 19's basically shorten the diff.
With 19's for you to achieve full lock turns u must lift the height of the car so the guard clearly doesnt touch the lip & u will have to modify the inner rear of the front wheel arch/ firewall to get this result.
From experience saying that 18's should be the biggest wheels to fit to a gemini without having to go out of ur way to make them fit proplerly
With 19's for you to achieve full lock turns u must lift the height of the car so the guard clearly doesnt touch the lip & u will have to modify the inner rear of the front wheel arch/ firewall to get this result.
From experience saying that 18's should be the biggest wheels to fit to a gemini without having to go out of ur way to make them fit proplerly
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my 18s are the exact same diametre as my 13s just an inch wider so they take up practically the same space
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yes but the inside of the rim where it is likely to hit the shock at full droop is in a different spot on the 18's due to their diameter..troyrotor wrote:my 18s are the exact same diametre as my 13s just an inch wider so they take up practically the same space
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yer thats true, well mine dont hit anyway so im happy
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Another thing to consider is that when comparing say 13's and 18's with the exact same rim width, offset, and overall rolling diameter, the tyres on the 18's will have a sqare shoulder being low profile, while the 13's will be more rounded. This means that the edges of the tyres on the 18's will be closer to things (front guard lip and rear panel/footwell panel inside guard) and the lower profile tyres will be more likely to rub against things.