Drivetrain: Torque Tube Rubber repairs.
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Drivetrain: Torque Tube Rubber repairs.
Well, this post has been a long time coming, considering the amount of these we've done now, but when I bent the torque tube in my car I figured this time I might as well take some photos and show you all how to remove that "clunk" on gear change with your broken rubber.
So pretty much this is what you need..
Rubber is just some cool high density s*#t that toddy picked up from clark rubber (our favorite rubber supplier and retailer) so yeah, its thick, durable, water proof and a bitch to cut through...
moving on...
start by removing the two bolts on top of the torque tube that hold the centre bearing looking thing in...
Should leave you with something looking like this.
this is what the standard rubber will look like (mine was in pretty good nick, this just makes it stronger and prevents the moronic contraption from breaking as soon as you lay your first second geary up the nice quiet suburban street...
So now you start cutting the crap out of that rubber that you picked up from your favorite rubber supplier early in the day (or week) and start jamming it in to fill the gaps that the stupid standard rubber doesn't cover. will look something like this once done.
then we start with the trusty sikaflex (now honestly, if you don't like the brand or type of sikaflex i use, i dont give a f*#k, use whatever you like, if you honestly think the marine stuff will hold better because its designed to get wet, go for it, i live in qld and we don't really get rain here anyway, opinions can be kept to one self cheers) this is kinda like colouring in whilst you were in preschool, but this time, try get all the gaps, squeeze it in real nice and even stay inside the lines
also, toddy came up with a good idea, he suggests buying a rubber latex glove (or borrowing your mum's, whatever?) to apply the sikaflex coz that sht is sticky... and you tend to sit for about 4 days getting the s*#t off ya hands...
So then go put your centre bearing back on with those little knobby bits (you'll know what im talking bout when you do it) going through the holes (hehe knob in hole) and bolt the two bolts you removed at the start of the exercise back in and yeah... think thats about it...
so there we go, let the s*#t dry for a while, tis recommended to be dryed for like 24 hours or some s*#t, but whatever, just throw the thing back in and get to it...
the finished product:
chur.
Buckna
Todd - 06EMY
LockNchop Mechanics
So pretty much this is what you need..
Rubber is just some cool high density s*#t that toddy picked up from clark rubber (our favorite rubber supplier and retailer) so yeah, its thick, durable, water proof and a bitch to cut through...
moving on...
start by removing the two bolts on top of the torque tube that hold the centre bearing looking thing in...
Should leave you with something looking like this.
this is what the standard rubber will look like (mine was in pretty good nick, this just makes it stronger and prevents the moronic contraption from breaking as soon as you lay your first second geary up the nice quiet suburban street...
So now you start cutting the crap out of that rubber that you picked up from your favorite rubber supplier early in the day (or week) and start jamming it in to fill the gaps that the stupid standard rubber doesn't cover. will look something like this once done.
then we start with the trusty sikaflex (now honestly, if you don't like the brand or type of sikaflex i use, i dont give a f*#k, use whatever you like, if you honestly think the marine stuff will hold better because its designed to get wet, go for it, i live in qld and we don't really get rain here anyway, opinions can be kept to one self cheers) this is kinda like colouring in whilst you were in preschool, but this time, try get all the gaps, squeeze it in real nice and even stay inside the lines
also, toddy came up with a good idea, he suggests buying a rubber latex glove (or borrowing your mum's, whatever?) to apply the sikaflex coz that sht is sticky... and you tend to sit for about 4 days getting the s*#t off ya hands...
So then go put your centre bearing back on with those little knobby bits (you'll know what im talking bout when you do it) going through the holes (hehe knob in hole) and bolt the two bolts you removed at the start of the exercise back in and yeah... think thats about it...
so there we go, let the s*#t dry for a while, tis recommended to be dryed for like 24 hours or some s*#t, but whatever, just throw the thing back in and get to it...
the finished product:
chur.
Buckna
Todd - 06EMY
LockNchop Mechanics
gene wrote:Lok for mod………………… HAHAHAAHAHA not realy???? LOL. When hell freezes over and cocks fall from the heavens
Holy snappin' ducksh_t Buckna. That is the ugliest repair job I have ever seen.
There is a company called Qld Rollers and Liners at Rocklea that remake the rubbers. Take the torque tube and the mount off the car to them and they will do it in a few days for about $140.00.
I have one in Rally Gem and it is just fine. Took me 18 months of rallying to wear the first one out. The newest one is bigger and looks stronger.
Cheers Thirsty
There is a company called Qld Rollers and Liners at Rocklea that remake the rubbers. Take the torque tube and the mount off the car to them and they will do it in a few days for about $140.00.
I have one in Rally Gem and it is just fine. Took me 18 months of rallying to wear the first one out. The newest one is bigger and looks stronger.
Cheers Thirsty
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lol interesting... you should've talked to loops about this before doing it...
apparantly the rubber in there is hollow and you can drill holes in it and fill the entire thing with sikaflex... lol you've put an interesting take on it...
how long till you ben the shaft again?
does this mean there'll be another few roasted tyres thursday night?
apparantly the rubber in there is hollow and you can drill holes in it and fill the entire thing with sikaflex... lol you've put an interesting take on it...
how long till you ben the shaft again?
does this mean there'll be another few roasted tyres thursday night?
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Perhaps. I'm more worried about weak axles than bent tubes, I don't really have the torque that jeff does.
hmm, interesting, the rubber didn't feel hollow, will go downstairs and check it out in a second.
And thirsty, new rubbers are expensive, $140, sikaflex does the same job and whilst it might look a little more messy than a moulded bit of rubber, it's under the car...
hmm, interesting, the rubber didn't feel hollow, will go downstairs and check it out in a second.
And thirsty, new rubbers are expensive, $140, sikaflex does the same job and whilst it might look a little more messy than a moulded bit of rubber, it's under the car...
gene wrote:Lok for mod………………… HAHAHAAHAHA not realy???? LOL. When hell freezes over and cocks fall from the heavens
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can confirm the rubber I have downstairs is not hollow.
I think loops drilled and squeezed through because he didn't remove the two bolts and pull the tube out to access the other side.
Loops also used cut up engine mounts I do beleive, so if you don't wanna fork out the $8 to a rubber shop you can get some second hand engine mounts to steal rubber from.
I think loops drilled and squeezed through because he didn't remove the two bolts and pull the tube out to access the other side.
Loops also used cut up engine mounts I do beleive, so if you don't wanna fork out the $8 to a rubber shop you can get some second hand engine mounts to steal rubber from.
gene wrote:Lok for mod………………… HAHAHAAHAHA not realy???? LOL. When hell freezes over and cocks fall from the heavens
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wrong!! he bought brand new torque tube mounts from holden them filled the centre bearing with sika and done what you done there alsoBuckna wrote:can confirm the rubber I have downstairs is not hollow.
I think loops drilled and squeezed through because he didn't remove the two bolts and pull the tube out to access the other side.
Loops also used cut up engine mounts I do beleive, so if you don't wanna fork out the $8 to a rubber shop you can get some second hand engine mounts to steal rubber from.
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I dont really know that much about the three link in the gem, (its somthing i plan on tearing into shortly) so im going to ask:
Whats the point to this? Does it mount the torque tube in more stiff and securely leading to less vibrations?
Is this somthing that would only be a problem on gemini's with alot of torque, and capable of going > 150kph?
Whats the point to this? Does it mount the torque tube in more stiff and securely leading to less vibrations?
Is this somthing that would only be a problem on gemini's with alot of torque, and capable of going > 150kph?
Gemini: Light weight, low cost RWD automotive platform.
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When that rubber breaks, when you change gears you'll hear a massive Clunk!, this stops that, stops the movement and alot of teh noises...
cars with alot of torque tend to bend the metal itself like I did and you need to replace teh whole thing lol stupid geminis!
cars with alot of torque tend to bend the metal itself like I did and you need to replace teh whole thing lol stupid geminis!
gene wrote:Lok for mod………………… HAHAHAAHAHA not realy???? LOL. When hell freezes over and cocks fall from the heavens
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Guess so, but if you look at teh top of the rubber, there is to much play in there for a gemini with a bit of power, especially the rotor, i think that thing could break the rubber in a matter of seconds without sikaflex.
gene wrote:Lok for mod………………… HAHAHAAHAHA not realy???? LOL. When hell freezes over and cocks fall from the heavens
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You can also put on disposable gloves and use some turps to smooth the s*#t out real nice! I am going to try this in the near future also!!!
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TG- Latest Project plans not sure
WH Caprice daily driver- Tune, Exhaust, auto, stall, diff gears, Valve springs, U/Dirve pulley, OTRCAI 12.7@ 108 MPH