No spark ignition

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GoForGreen
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No spark ignition

Post by GoForGreen »

I hav jus put a rebuilt 1.6l engine into my gemini and i am about to start it but there is no spark through the coil but there is 12V of power going streight to the coil?? Is the coil fuked or could it be something else? could it be the wiring?
ScR01
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Post by ScR01 »

Checked fuses?
GoForGreen
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Post by GoForGreen »

which fuses?
ScR01
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Post by ScR01 »

I first thought this would have been a fuse, (happened to me a few months back, no spark at all!) just re-read your post, so you're getting power to the coil but not out of it?

Grab a coil out of a gem at the wrecker n test it?
Wreckers would only want $5 or $10 for one..
GoForGreen
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Post by GoForGreen »

could it possibly be the condensor?
GTX gem
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Post by GTX gem »

check to make sure the coil has a good earth.

coils can burn out, you should be able to see if its any good by applying power to it with a voltmeter
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Germinator
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Post by Germinator »

(+) power to the coil needs an earth to energise it and when the (-) connection is disconnected the coil fires a spark.

You can test the coil easily. Remove the wire that goes from coil (-) to the points. Replace it with a piece of loose wire. Switch on the ignition and touch the loose end of the wire to the body or engine earth. Each time it disconnects the coil will spark.

If that test shows a working coil, check to see your points are actually opening and not staying closed the whole time. Set the gap with a dwell meter in preference to feeler gauges.
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archangel62
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Post by archangel62 »

Germinator wrote:If that test shows a working coil, check to see your points are actually opening and not staying closed the whole time.
Bingo.

Basically, there are plenty of reasons for a lack of spark. Check the points gap first and foremost.
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GoForGreen
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Post by GoForGreen »

nope, mucked around with it today, we have buggered the timing, is there a way to reajust the timing without having to drain all the f*#cking oil and water and pulling the head off ???

cause at this point all i can really see that will work is pulling the timing cover off and alligning it alllll up at that point

:(

somone please give me some good news
Encyclopedia Ronnie
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Post by Encyclopedia Ronnie »

take the rocker cover off undo the chain tensioner pop the chain off wind the crank round to TDC line ur cam gear up 2 its marking for TDC as well slip chain back on tighten it up and hey presto, bitts fidling n other crap in there but nah u dnt have 2 pull the hole mootr down nah
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Hachikansai77
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Post by Hachikansai77 »

If the engine turns over without hitting (I'd assume so if it ran) rotate to TDC on the crank BEFORE doing taking anything off, makes it less likely to bend valves while fiddling with the cam position.

Remove rocker cover, look at your marks to see if it really is out.

Slacken the tensioner, being gentle with it as they tend to break if forced. Bit of gentle pressure down and twist (counter clockwise I believe) and it should spring back up freely.

Loosen off the cam bolt to allow some room for the sprocket to wiggle on the end, makes it a bit easier to get the chain off. Be careful with the cam dowel pin because if it comes out and drops in the sump you're royally screwed. It shouldn't if you don't try and completely remove the sprocket repeatedly.

Time your marks based on the cam and crank with the Dizzy, not the sprocket and chain, as that's how I f**ked my timing the first time I did it and bent valves.
Use this thread as a guide to your marks:
http://www.ozgemini.com/forums/tech/vie ... hp?t=14426

Make sure it's not the ignition timing too, which is also why I say check the marks are off before taking anything apart.
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Germinator
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Post by Germinator »

Ok, so what you are saying is you have the cam timing all out of sequence with the crank right?


how far out? if the cam is on 4 when it should be on 1 jsut swap the leads all around 180§ out of place.

If it's something else and you have not damaged valves by touching then as Ronnie said. Pull the rocker cover off, release the cam timing chain tensioner (carefully, it's plastic and they snap easily) and lift it off the cam pully securing the chain so it doesn't drop into the timing cover (aggggggh!!). You also need to make sure the cam isn't pushing valves down so loosen all the cam adjustment lock nuts and unscrew each adjuster at least 3 turns. Loosen off all the cam retaining brackets and visially check no valves are still being pushed down. Now, turn the crank by hand till the notch on the crank pulley lines up with T mark on the timing cover. Look at the dissy rotor arm and decide if it looks better pointing to dissy cap lobe for 1 or 4. The notch on the cam needs to line up with the notch on number 1 cam securing bracket. Bolt the brackets slowly and evenly back into position again.

I'm forgetting if the notch leaves the cam lobes on 1 facing up or down...? If it's down then number 1 cylinder is firing so at this point the dissy rotor must point to lead 1. Make sure the side of the timing chain opposite the adjuster is tight with the cam in the right position and double check to see the T mark still aligns with the crank pulley notch. After checking carefully activate the chain tensioner again so it tightens up the timing chain. Visually check the cam marks and the crank marks again. Slowly turn the engine over a few times by hand in the correct direction (never wind it over backwards!) then stop with the crank pulley notch lined up with the T and visually view the cam timing marks to certify they line up. If you can;t see the mark on the cam, spin the engine over one turn again and line it up.The cam mark should align with the cam bracket again.
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Encyclopedia Ronnie
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Post by Encyclopedia Ronnie »

another thing as germy said at the end when u turn it over by hand turn it till the cam goes the whole way round once, and then a few more times cause ive seen this happen they guy turned it over cupla times n it just so hapened he had it outa time but he turned it over enough for it 2 line back up where hed set it messy thing that was
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