Turbocoupe's TX IPRA Race Coupe... Dyno time
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I have been putting off these rust repairs for a while, as they are a pain in the arse to fix especially if you want to do them properly. I have spare chassis rails to weld back in an enough other bits a pieces to do a reasonable job.
I have also started sanding down the rest of the body, and 1/4 panels + doors. Most of the panels are very average and are almost throw away items but I would prefer to use them as it's a race car and likely to get damaged at some stage.
Whilst sanding I also found a few unexpected patches of rust, I have to keep reminding myself that it's a race car and doesn't need to be perfect.
As always everything takes 10 times longer than anticipated, but I will get there eventually.
I have also started sanding down the rest of the body, and 1/4 panels + doors. Most of the panels are very average and are almost throw away items but I would prefer to use them as it's a race car and likely to get damaged at some stage.
Whilst sanding I also found a few unexpected patches of rust, I have to keep reminding myself that it's a race car and doesn't need to be perfect.
As always everything takes 10 times longer than anticipated, but I will get there eventually.
#Turbocoupe75
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Got a little done on the LHS rust repair. I'm doing an"average" job as I have a lack of time, but I am happy with the results so far.
In this pic I have welded in a piece of 2mm plate and extended it a little further than the original to meet the inner chassis rail. I used a few plug welds and butt welded the sides together with a vertical down weld.
In this pics the new outer chassis rail is being measured so I can modify it to look more like the original bit that was in there. Instead of letting any water drain into the chassis rails im going to leave a hole at the bottom so it will get directed out in the wheel well.
In this pic I have welded in a piece of 2mm plate and extended it a little further than the original to meet the inner chassis rail. I used a few plug welds and butt welded the sides together with a vertical down weld.
In this pics the new outer chassis rail is being measured so I can modify it to look more like the original bit that was in there. Instead of letting any water drain into the chassis rails im going to leave a hole at the bottom so it will get directed out in the wheel well.
#Turbocoupe75
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Update time : )
Well in the last few weeks I have completed all the sill repairs and welded up some of the damage in the boot. Both front 1/4 panels have been sanded and fitted and the rest of the body has been sprayed with etch primer (from a can due to noise and time constraints). At the moment Time vs quality is a big issue as I have little time and need to get the job done coz I really really want to go racing this year.
I picked up my roll cage bit's from Walker Chassis and have started installing the base plates for the cage to be welded on to. Being my usual picky self I have gone to extra lengths to strengthen the mounting points and link up the points where the chassis meets together, pics are worth a thousand words....
Race coupe with panels on and in primer
Passenger side base strengthening
More metal added 2.5mm thick
Drivers side base plate complete, main hoop not welded in yet
Roll hoop in position (almost)
Well in the last few weeks I have completed all the sill repairs and welded up some of the damage in the boot. Both front 1/4 panels have been sanded and fitted and the rest of the body has been sprayed with etch primer (from a can due to noise and time constraints). At the moment Time vs quality is a big issue as I have little time and need to get the job done coz I really really want to go racing this year.
I picked up my roll cage bit's from Walker Chassis and have started installing the base plates for the cage to be welded on to. Being my usual picky self I have gone to extra lengths to strengthen the mounting points and link up the points where the chassis meets together, pics are worth a thousand words....
Race coupe with panels on and in primer
Passenger side base strengthening
More metal added 2.5mm thick
Drivers side base plate complete, main hoop not welded in yet
Roll hoop in position (almost)
#Turbocoupe75
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Update time, well the last lot of photo's were posted in March and this (last) year had gone soooooo quick, much progress has been made and the things to do list is much much smaller. I finally finished it off with 2 coats of evoke pearl grey metallic, not sure if the colour came out right but it looks ok for a shed job and a first time spray painter ; )
I just have to finish off a little welding and then install the seat and I should be able to go for a little drive : )
A photo is worth a thousand words so here goes:
Next on the to do list is
-paint the doors
-new laminated front windscreen
-perspex windows
-wheel alignment
-and some new wheels and race semi slicks
and then off to do some hill climbs and motorkana's in the coming year!!!
I just have to finish off a little welding and then install the seat and I should be able to go for a little drive : )
A photo is worth a thousand words so here goes:
Next on the to do list is
-paint the doors
-new laminated front windscreen
-perspex windows
-wheel alignment
-and some new wheels and race semi slicks
and then off to do some hill climbs and motorkana's in the coming year!!!
#Turbocoupe75
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Ok Lexan Window's are in, they weren't too hard to do, just a bit fiddly. I used a black pen to mark around the edge of the old window and a jigsaw to cut out the shape, then used a body file to clean up the edges.
The front screen is laminated Glass and all the other's including the rear are Lexan. Depending how much these vibrate I might consider it for a road car, but they would definitely need to be tinted.
I think the last thing I have to do is bleed the brakes, adjust the bias valve and get a wheel alignment.
I am also going to install some Speco gauges as a precaution, im putting in a mechanical Oil pressure, Vacuum/Boost and mechical water temp (if I can find somewhere to screw it in!!!
Now to clean up the shed and organize the f*#cking huge mess that's been ignored and added to over the last year.... and maybe i can start work on the Red gemini....still not sure what motor to go in this one yet???
(my little helpers / future pit crew)
The front screen is laminated Glass and all the other's including the rear are Lexan. Depending how much these vibrate I might consider it for a road car, but they would definitely need to be tinted.
I think the last thing I have to do is bleed the brakes, adjust the bias valve and get a wheel alignment.
I am also going to install some Speco gauges as a precaution, im putting in a mechanical Oil pressure, Vacuum/Boost and mechical water temp (if I can find somewhere to screw it in!!!
Now to clean up the shed and organize the f*#cking huge mess that's been ignored and added to over the last year.... and maybe i can start work on the Red gemini....still not sure what motor to go in this one yet???
(my little helpers / future pit crew)
#Turbocoupe75
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- Long Term Member
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Well it's been a while between posts and up dates.
first was the laps around Mallala, the car performed well but as always I want to go faster and fix up a few issues with handling and power.
Brakes- were excellent with standard pads
Engine- more revs + torque are needed to get more speed down the straight and spin the rear wheels to get turn in on the corners.
Suspension- not bad for a road car, but I need the car to sit flat around corners and more camber on the front to help with turn in.
So next on the to do list is:
Cam- Chris milton is going to do a cam suitable for standard valve springs, should give me extra 1500rpm to play.
Electronic ignition- help with reliable spark at high revs, points donlt like 8000 rpm. (DONE)
Suspension- more camber up front by adjusting ball joints + Double front sway bars.
Pics to come : )
first was the laps around Mallala, the car performed well but as always I want to go faster and fix up a few issues with handling and power.
Brakes- were excellent with standard pads
Engine- more revs + torque are needed to get more speed down the straight and spin the rear wheels to get turn in on the corners.
Suspension- not bad for a road car, but I need the car to sit flat around corners and more camber on the front to help with turn in.
So next on the to do list is:
Cam- Chris milton is going to do a cam suitable for standard valve springs, should give me extra 1500rpm to play.
Electronic ignition- help with reliable spark at high revs, points donlt like 8000 rpm. (DONE)
Suspension- more camber up front by adjusting ball joints + Double front sway bars.
Pics to come : )
#Turbocoupe75
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Pics of the new carby and "high rise" adaptor plate.
I had to make another spacer to mount the carby higher as I was not happy with the way the 38/38 would flow through the much smaller original already ported gemini inlet. I milled this out of 20mm aluminium plate as seems to look like it will work ok : )
Other things I have to complete before I go racing are:
- oil cooler & remote filter
- seat mounts, not happy with standard bracket
- pad door X bars
- and another Dyno tune and wheel alignment ; (
I had to make another spacer to mount the carby higher as I was not happy with the way the 38/38 would flow through the much smaller original already ported gemini inlet. I milled this out of 20mm aluminium plate as seems to look like it will work ok : )
Other things I have to complete before I go racing are:
- oil cooler & remote filter
- seat mounts, not happy with standard bracket
- pad door X bars
- and another Dyno tune and wheel alignment ; (
#Turbocoupe75
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- Joined: Sun May 13, 2007 9:34 pm
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Oil cooler and remote filter. I can now run a Z9 size filter and there are some higher quality racing filters available.
The oil cooler is a VE trans cooler, and u just need to source some speedflow fitting + high quality hose. The same kit is on ebay for $145 + postage, but I paid just over $100
The oil cooler is a VE trans cooler, and u just need to source some speedflow fitting + high quality hose. The same kit is on ebay for $145 + postage, but I paid just over $100
#Turbocoupe75
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The drive home was a little expensive last night, a stop at pirtek for $200 of pro flow fittings (10) an a stop at outlaws for steel braid hose (2meters @ $70).
The oil cooler, hoses and Z9 filter are all installed, not quite as neat as I would like, but will do for a race car : )
Now I need to finish my seat mounts, a fuel regulator, dyno tune and wheel alignment .......
The oil cooler, hoses and Z9 filter are all installed, not quite as neat as I would like, but will do for a race car : )
Now I need to finish my seat mounts, a fuel regulator, dyno tune and wheel alignment .......
#Turbocoupe75
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- Long Term Member
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Update time:
- I need to go for a drive real bad..... it's been 8 months since Mallala and my right foot is getting itchy : )
In the last few weeks I have been getting the car prepared to get a IP log book and a cage certificate.
It's another sad day as the front and rear bumpers were re installed, I much prefer the car without them : (
Other too do Items have been finished as well as creating a few more!!!!
-Fuel reg installed
-Surge tank installed
-Facet 4-7psi fuel pump installed
-Milo 2.5lt catch can fabricated and installed
more to do's:
-finish welding seat mounts
-install sway bars
-move exhaust towards rear of car
-move battery box to passanger side
-fabricate rear deck lid spoiler
PICS
-oil cooler and fuel pressure regulator with bypass
Surge tank and facet fuel pump
Milo catch can : )
Rear spoiler ??
- I need to go for a drive real bad..... it's been 8 months since Mallala and my right foot is getting itchy : )
In the last few weeks I have been getting the car prepared to get a IP log book and a cage certificate.
It's another sad day as the front and rear bumpers were re installed, I much prefer the car without them : (
Other too do Items have been finished as well as creating a few more!!!!
-Fuel reg installed
-Surge tank installed
-Facet 4-7psi fuel pump installed
-Milo 2.5lt catch can fabricated and installed
more to do's:
-finish welding seat mounts
-install sway bars
-move exhaust towards rear of car
-move battery box to passanger side
-fabricate rear deck lid spoiler
PICS
-oil cooler and fuel pressure regulator with bypass
Surge tank and facet fuel pump
Milo catch can : )
Rear spoiler ??
#Turbocoupe75
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- Long Term Member
- Posts: 1238
- Joined: Sun May 13, 2007 9:34 pm
- Location: South OZ
Motor is all together ready to be dropped in the next couple of days : D
The only things left to do are the crank spigot bearing, flywheel and clutch and front pulley bolts. Im looking foward to hearing this thing fire up for the first time and going for that first drive, probably off to the dyno then a track day, Ill keep you all posted : D
-Bonus points for any custom bits pointed out !
Pics:
The only things left to do are the crank spigot bearing, flywheel and clutch and front pulley bolts. Im looking foward to hearing this thing fire up for the first time and going for that first drive, probably off to the dyno then a track day, Ill keep you all posted : D
-Bonus points for any custom bits pointed out !
Pics:
#Turbocoupe75
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Re: Turbocoupe's TX IPRA Race Coupe... Oil cooler update!
ok Dyno results for the coupe are in 85 BHP at 5,500 RPM with 98RON
no Dyno graph for proof only the spec and jets used to get the result, would have been nice to get the 100BHP, maybe a larger cam in the future as I am only running the smallest crow cams grind. The Dyno The Gem was on is over 35 years old and reads a little low + the high profile tyres and low pressure wouldn't have helped with the reading, so I am very happy with the result.
The Carby has been re-jetted to and has a pretty good mixture across the rev range. If anyone is interested all the jet sizes are there.
Link To Video
http://s180.photobucket.com/user/turboc ... 1.mp4.html
no Dyno graph for proof only the spec and jets used to get the result, would have been nice to get the 100BHP, maybe a larger cam in the future as I am only running the smallest crow cams grind. The Dyno The Gem was on is over 35 years old and reads a little low + the high profile tyres and low pressure wouldn't have helped with the reading, so I am very happy with the result.
The Carby has been re-jetted to and has a pretty good mixture across the rev range. If anyone is interested all the jet sizes are there.
Link To Video
http://s180.photobucket.com/user/turboc ... 1.mp4.html
#Turbocoupe75
Re: Turbocoupe's TX IPRA Race Coupe... Dyno time
hey do you still have both your coupes???
Where bouts in sa are you?
I have a 75 coupe ive had for bout 14 years and am in the process of getting her back on the road!!!
Any help would be much appreciated!!!
Cheers jeremy
Where bouts in sa are you?
I have a 75 coupe ive had for bout 14 years and am in the process of getting her back on the road!!!
Any help would be much appreciated!!!
Cheers jeremy
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Re: Turbocoupe's TX IPRA Race Coupe... Dyno time
Update, more to come!!
Boing....out with pre RTS arms and in with more camber!!!
Boing....out with pre RTS arms and in with more camber!!!
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Re: Turbocoupe's TX IPRA Race Coupe... Dyno time
Next is a new battery, fuel and oil change!
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