Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

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DR_GEM
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by DR_GEM »

Need the motivation to keep me to it!

Count down begins.
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Jonno
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by Jonno »

F3ARED wrote:
I'm hoping to be ready with the TE by mid April and hopefully join you guys for the gemi nationals
f*#k yeah. Quoting it so you have nowhere to hide now :lol:

Get cracking!
x2

Question bro.

Why 8 550cc injectors? I reckon you'd get away with a normal set of 1000-2000cc injectors? Like IDs or bosch or something. Surely it'd be more efficient without two rows. Your only running pump 98/E85 yeah?
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DR_GEM
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by DR_GEM »

Yes and it's a good question. E85 yes. A few reasons

I've got them lying around
I want to save the 2200's for the coupe
The manifold I have was modified by Lee Thomas to have 8 injector bosses. So even if I run 4 I'd have to plug the other holes. No point wasting more money uneccessarily (Lord knows I've done enough of that!)

The microtech has sequential injector firing but can handle the lower resistance when paralleled. So each cylinder will have two injectors (obviously) that will effectively operate as 1100cc injectors with sufficient low latency / pulse width to idle ok.

Mick
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by Jonno »

DR_GEM wrote:Yes and it's a good question. E85 yes. A few reasons

I've got them lying around
I want to save the 2200's for the coupe
The manifold I have was modified by Lee Thomas to have 8 injector bosses. So even if I run 4 I'd have to plug the other holes. No point wasting more money uneccessarily (Lord knows I've done enough of that!)

The microtech has sequential injector firing but can handle the lower resistance when paralleled. So each cylinder will have two injectors (obviously) that will effectively operate as 1100cc injectors with sufficient low latency / pulse width to idle ok.

Mick
Makes perfect sense :)
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by DR_GEM »

Here's some pics of the borgwarner s257sxe

57mm inducer 76mm exducer forge milled compressor wheel (fmw)
61mm exducer 70mm inducer turbine wheel
65lb/min flow potential
1.00 twin scroll t4 rear housing with 3" v band exit
This can support up to 700 flywheel hp on e85 @ approx 34psi

Image

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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by Jonno »

Looks pretty baller man!
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by DR_GEM »

So didn't quite get there on the mid April. Had our third child so been busy helping with that.

BUT - the good news is this - the TE will be registered next week. As a stocker. Original engine and trans going in. I managed to get the engine turning and pulled the head off for a squiz and she was ok. So bought the necessary consumables to get it back up and running and hopefully should fire up on the weekend.

Ended up painting the engine bay again (2k) after having to rub back some of my previous work. Stuck with the original colour (Aztec Silver) which is on the less common side of gemi colours. It looks decentish now not 100% but good enough.

Reason for registering as stocker is it needs to be parked up when I move house soon so will make it a lot easier. Rest of the paint will need to be done shortly after registering to save on storage and towing costs.

4zd1 is going in the coupe over the next 3 months.
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by DR_GEM »

TE almost done. Was missing a heap of little parts to get it going which I managed to source.

Really happy with the progress on this one actually and its motivated me to finish the coupe

However - need some advice from the smart peoples:

I've mentioned before the firewall and floor pans need to be cut out of my flat floor pre adr27a 1975 TX coupe, and later model floor pans / firewall welded in. I haven't made any progress on this because it scares the s*#t out of me to get it wrong and I can't find an appropriate person to do the job for me.

That and the later model floor pan I have (taken out of the old TC coupe) was cut into like 4 pieces when I removed it - so again more daunting for me.

I'm at a loss what to do. Do I :

1. Find a TC-TG donor car / wreck with clean floors, cut the floor out in one piece and weld it into the coupe? OR:

2. Do number 1 option but get someone professional to do it (I'm an ok welder but not the best - got myself a decent welder a few months back after my previous one s*#t itself but would prefer an expert do this important part of the structure on this car if I go this way....)

3. Sell the TX coupe (as is with cage etc) and buy a normal floor coupe either complete or roller then get that caged etc

I realize option 3 will lose me some money but I'm seriously considering this path as I don't have the time to waste anymore on this and I don't want to fk the TX coupe up with any attempt to get the floor right

Please remember TX coupe already has the tech inspected roll cage in it - the front legs are bolt in (therefore removable) but if I change the flat floor to normal floor, the front legs of the cage would have to be modified to suit the higher floor pan. It's not too big a job as its basically shortening the front legs a little and re welding the base plates that bolt to the floor, but still another risk

Really would appreciate some thoughts as this is stressing me out. I have to move house in September / October and won't have anywhere to work on the body after that - will only be able to assemble it ( no welding or bodywork) - so need to make a choice.

Mick
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by F3ARED »

Is there any particular reason WHY you want to swap to the later floors? Is it because the floors are f*#cked or is there another reason? Personally, if it could be avoided....id just leave them alone. MSG box still fits its just the speedo drive that doesnt, pretty sure an MUA can be squeezed in there as well. Cut the standard gearbox mounts off, move them further back and be done with it. Admittedly the bolt-through-floor seat mounts are pretty s*#t but the later stuff isnt much better either; in any event, id look at running box section or tubing from tunnel to sill for the seat mounts much like ash did with his rally car [see picture]

Image

Its hard to say without seeing pictures of the damage and or what or why you are trying to replace on the car. Advice i was given by a panel beater [regarding a different car all together] was that where possible, its always best to unpick spot welds and remove entire pieces rather than cut/splice/patch. Example he was showing me was a VZ Commodore with heavy front damage, that was required to go through VIV inspection once fixed - instead of sitting the car on the caroliner and pulling it, f*#cking about replacing radiator support and trying to get s*#t to line up, the easiest way was to remove everything [in this case up to the undamaged firewall] by unpicking it, and basically doing the same with a good donor, and then replacing it. Was the easiest way to ensure everything lined up/squared up.

If its a rust repair for floor pan you cant really do it that way as the floors and tunnel are one section; best way in this instance is to sit the new panel on top of old, screw or rivet it in then cut through both - this allows you to butt weld the panel and once ground is essentially seamless/invisible. Toby has put a decent how-to for this in the workshop page

If its an ENTIRE floor swap including trans tunnel and all, then the best way is to use the unpick method. First panel seams are along bottom of firewall, along sills [spot welds are along the pinch weld i believe] and then just behind the front seat mounts [rear set]. Next section of floor is from the back of front seat mounts to bottom of seat base, side is joined just above lower seat belt bolt on B pillar i think. Id be inclined to leave this bit alone because i think the rear floor pans are the same as the later floor anyway and the control arm mounts are underneath? Basically drill out spot welds on good parts, drill out spot welds on bad parts and swap over and plug weld. Cage will help stop car from flexing/moving as well so you shouldnt have dramas there. If you have concerns then just spot weld a bar between the b pillars and near the dash frame.
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DR_GEM
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by DR_GEM »

Thanks for got the response Nick.

Only very minor rust in the floorpans at the moment. Nothing some plating won't fix.

Reason for the swap is purely to accommodate the trimatic. From what everyone tells me it's not gonna work.

Moving the mounts back is a lot easier and better option if I can do it safely and without affecting output angle. With the power I'm looking to make, I don't want to risk the angle being out and chewing unis and output shafts all the time. The trimatic output shaft is the weakest part of the box setup so any slight deviation from flat will affect this.

If I can do without changing the entire floor then this is absolutely my preferred option

Mick
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by DR_GEM »

Here's some pics of the floor pans - these are old

Mick

http://imgur.com/a/NJRkj

http://imgur.com/qLOfGPS

http://imgur.com/dHgvGxS
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by F3ARED »

Hey Mick,

Have you actually physically tried to test fit the 4Z with the trimatic in the tunnel first?
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by DR_GEM »

Not with the engine - only trimatic itself

Physically fits in, but mounts don't line up

Mick
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by Jonno »

Hey Off topic.

Have you read this thread at all?

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=48535
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Re: Pre adr TX coupe 4ze1 turbo build (was project TC coupe)

Post by DR_GEM »

So I've been working on getting the TE running with stock motor but now decided the 4zd1 is going into it with the MUA 5 speed

I've installed the commodore brakes up front and will be running commodore discs on the rear. Going to use a TE booster, XB master cylinder.

Question I have is which proportion valve should I be using?

Mick
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