12 inch subs x 2 + quieter than one... wtf
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12 inch subs x 2 + quieter than one... wtf
i dunno if its the head unit which has just been changed, but basically thats what im guessin cos all i did was leave the amp settings as they were from the old head unit.. bolted the new ones in and then i have the problem of.. if i disconnect one sub.. the bass picks up nicely.. as soon as i hook up the second sub.. the other sib slack off but then both are going.. i dont get it.. anyone know if its an internal thing in the clarion head unit i have?
Sounds like the sub is wired out of phase try reversing the polarity of one sub
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If beef is in beef mince, What is in pet mince?
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Tee hee... Did you fix it by swapping the power cables to the battery? That often solves it being quieter when both switched on.
Now to mount that flink box.
The post-mounted Toyota unit may suit the boot. Then the KE/VN/VP box up the front.....
Oh yeah - I figured out that a 1F capacitor has about 100 Watt-seconds of energy. A 7AH battery has ~100W-hrs of energy - a mere 3,600 more.
So your much larger battery craps all over any capacitor (assuming similar internal resistances).
Gotta love those caps! LOL!
Now to mount that flink box.
The post-mounted Toyota unit may suit the boot. Then the KE/VN/VP box up the front.....
Oh yeah - I figured out that a 1F capacitor has about 100 Watt-seconds of energy. A 7AH battery has ~100W-hrs of energy - a mere 3,600 more.
So your much larger battery craps all over any capacitor (assuming similar internal resistances).
Gotta love those caps! LOL!
in saying that i fitted a 2 farad cap in the mrs commodore as it was running over 1500 wrms and the cap was alot cheaper than getting another battery and it stopped it from running under 12vIZU069 wrote:Tee hee... Did you fix it by swapping the power cables to the battery? That often solves it being quieter when both switched on.
Now to mount that flink box.
The post-mounted Toyota unit may suit the boot. Then the KE/VN/VP box up the front.....
Oh yeah - I figured out that a 1F capacitor has about 100 Watt-seconds of energy. A 7AH battery has ~100W-hrs of energy - a mere 3,600 more.
So your much larger battery craps all over any capacitor (assuming similar internal resistances).
Gotta love those caps! LOL!
it was a response unit the commodore has a 550 CCA battery (only a month old) alternator was in very good cond) and it was still dropping under 12v and turning the source unit off! the cap didnt need charging it was directly connected i think it was around 100 bucks but solved all problems lights dont dim now as i have said before i was always of the belief that caps did nothing but now im not so sure oh and when running in an spl comp we gained an extra DB by disconnecting the cap on a term lab go figureIZU069 wrote:Where did you get a 2F cap for under $30?!SICKTG wrote:... the [2 farad] cap was alot cheaper than getting another battery
Not that it has anywhere near the same performance, but for under $30....
Can it be connected direct, or does it need pre-charging?
(Got a part number or its details?)
im not smart enough to know a 12v 7AH battery will be better i just grabbed what was readily availableIZU069 wrote:So it wasn't cheaper...
And I can assure you that a $25-$30 12V 7AH battery will be more effective. (ie - it will hold the voltage over 1,000 times as long)
I wonder how the capacitor protects itself when first connected - a timed circuit perhaps? Or high ESR (resistance)?