Stock RB dizzy internals
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- Regular
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Pretty sure ballast resistor connects to the neg terminal doesnt it? I removed my ballast resistor, got told it wouldnt work with it there...
Maybe i should just use the Bosch EFI coil ive got on the shelf at home.
Nick-
Maybe i should just use the Bosch EFI coil ive got on the shelf at home.
Nick-
Previously GeminiCoupe/GeminiRollingShell/SCAR3D/Jonnoisac#nt
78 TD Gemini Sedan - R.I.P
81 TE Gemini Sedan
78 TD Gemini Sedan - R.I.P
81 TE Gemini Sedan
FYI - it seems the RB ignitor has current limiting. I got a 0.3 Ohm Bosch MEC717 coil from an RB and ran it for a week in my RB-guts Wasp. (I only removed it because of erratic tacho operation - I'll fix that next decade.)
Hence you can probably use any coil, and without ballast.
FYI - my Wasp cranks & starts on an 8V battery, and I got home last week on a 7.2V battery. (4ZE1 Reduction starter; RB reluctor & ignitor with blue coil; NGK (of course!!) BP6ES splugs @ 1.1mm.)
Hence you can probably use any coil, and without ballast.
FYI - my Wasp cranks & starts on an 8V battery, and I got home last week on a 7.2V battery. (4ZE1 Reduction starter; RB reluctor & ignitor with blue coil; NGK (of course!!) BP6ES splugs @ 1.1mm.)
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- Will_with_Green_TD_Wagon
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where exactly do i need to put the heat sink paste?
got it all ready to go. now have it in bits for a clean (metal filings etc from making holes), then plan to wire it up!
should i open the RB standard 10 degree mech advance gap up to 12 or 14 deg while i have it out? cos the centre shaft i pulled out was a 12 - 14. the little insulator thing is totally gone from mine, so maybe i should only open it out to 11 or something?
got it all ready to go. now have it in bits for a clean (metal filings etc from making holes), then plan to wire it up!
should i open the RB standard 10 degree mech advance gap up to 12 or 14 deg while i have it out? cos the centre shaft i pulled out was a 12 - 14. the little insulator thing is totally gone from mine, so maybe i should only open it out to 11 or something?
I thought the same after my first didn't work, but later it worked without problem. (Maybe I wired wrong?) And I haven't had had problems with any since.Will_with_Green_TD_Wagon wrote:people reckon they never work again once pulling them out of the RB dizzy
Make sure that +12V is supplied to your IgCoil (coil+) and via the black-red wired to the ignitor (B terminal).
And the ignitor's C wire (black) goes to coil-
The ignitor's body (metal; heatsink etc) must be earthed to 0V (battery-) via the dizzy body, engine, etc.
To test the ignitor, get a small battery (1 - 1.5V) and briefly hook it across the ignitor's input (from the reluctor) with + to +. The + terminal (with reddish reluctor wire) is usually downwards.
This should fire the coil, or any load connected to +12V and earthed via the ignitor's "C" terminal/wire (black). (I used a 50W QH bulb.)
But DO NOT leave the 1.5V battery connected too long - it can destroy the ignitor.
The ignitor will only fire if the battery is connected properly (+ to +; - to -).
I tested with the reluctor disconnected, but it might work with it still connected, or even with the battery in series with the reluctor (ie, undo top "-" lead only and insert battery between the whitish reluctor wire and ignitor screw/terminal (with + to white reluctor).
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- Long Term Member
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Just for everyone's benefit, the BR reluctor module is available aftermarket.
Tridon part number TIM045
No need to wire up an external module if you are running a carby or an EFI that doesn't require a special ignition module. Just use the RB internal module and keep the whole package neatly inside the dissy housing.
Tridon part number TIM045
No need to wire up an external module if you are running a carby or an EFI that doesn't require a special ignition module. Just use the RB internal module and keep the whole package neatly inside the dissy housing.
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