The Question FINALY answered - VL centers

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Gene FJ20DEBT
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Post by Gene FJ20DEBT »

yeah pretty much, so it will work exactly the same... if they used one arm it would alow the diff to articulat alot more, baisly the same as the stoick torque tube except its pivoting to the left a bit instead of central.. but being a drag car no need for that as your just going stright.. if u used a single arm with your set up it would be the same as that but it would chew the s*#t out of the bushes where the arm bolts to the x-member , hence why they have the rose joints i guess.
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Post by PSI-26L »

Im only going in straight lines aswel :D
Gene FJ20DEBT
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Post by Gene FJ20DEBT »

:lol: i wouldnt wanna be cornering with that much power either :P especially in a gemini hhaha
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Gene FJ20DEBT
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Post by Gene FJ20DEBT »

news on the war front :D



1: torque tube CAN be grafted to the front of the lux diff
problem.. the weak tube rubber that tears all the time
solution.. unknown


2: tehy can don this and have it passed by an engineer
but instead of the one link on top it has to have 2 (on each side of the tail shaft)
problem.. possable cutting of the floor, no definate answer till they actually do it

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scottr0076
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Diff centres

Post by scottr0076 »

Ring a company in your neck of the woods called zero limits ive spoken to him about sr20 into gemini conversions,he told me theres a company in queensland i think it was called rolls and linners dont quote me on that they manufactured him stronger torque tube rumbers,thats what he told me anyway at the time he didnt have a number for me
Gene FJ20DEBT
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Post by Gene FJ20DEBT »

cheers

i will try find then number and give then a call
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Post by Rodeobob »

Gene FJ20DET wrote: it passed by an engineer
but instead of the one link on top it has to have 2 (on each side of the tail shaft)
problem.. possable cutting of the floor, no definate answer till they actually do it
Gene, i stuck my nose under a gem at the wreckers the other day to get all familiar again.

Theres a bracket that looks like it bolts up to the floor, it bolts over the front of the torque tube where the rubber mount is. Whats wrong with making another to replace that??? it could come out a bit further either side moulded to the shape of the floor. Pick up the original mounting holes and drill a few extra holes in the floor further out and have big washers under the carpet to mount it. Perhaps even pick up the seat belt mounitng holes/bolts.

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Gene FJ20DEBT
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Post by Gene FJ20DEBT »

cos its not just "yep theres a spot to bolt to the floor"

u have to make sure the pinion angle is going to act correctly when the diff moves up and down

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scottr0076
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Diff centres

Post by scottr0076 »

Gene i will post some pictures up for you hopefully on friday of a gemini wagon with the exact idea you have with instead of the 1 link on top of the diff it has two 1 either side of the torque tube what i can see of the pictures is he has used a approx 50 by 50 square tube welded up in the arch where the diff sits and that car has been passed by an engineer
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Post by Gene FJ20DEBT »

that would be awsum :D from as many angles as u can of where its omounted to the diff and where its mounted to the car also would be great.

what diff are you using?
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Post by Rodeobob »

Gene FJ20DET wrote:cos its not just "yep theres a spot to bolt to the floor"

u have to make sure the pinion angle is going to act correctly when the diff moves up and down

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Find me a car that has four arm suspension to locate the diff that has parallel arms as a factory setup. Ive never seen one. More the point is the top arms are always shorter and usually by heaps, thats not going to keep the pinion angle straight. Thats why they have universal joints.

Take a leaf spring. They wind up something stupid under acceleration. What does that do to Pinion angle???

Its not about where it goes, its about where its set to start with. It cant be straight, there has to be some inital static angle.

Wheres the Pinion angle in the std gemini setup???? Its at the front of the torque tube. Thats going to create a greater variance in angles when the diff moves than if the gemini had a one peice tailshaft because the unis at either end can take up 50% of the angle each. With the torque tube mounted to the floor at the front the rear uni is doing most of the work as the front one at the back of the box has no up and down movement to create any angle change.

Now look at a four link setup. The common holden variety. Totaly different pinion charecteristics/behaviour again.

All three of the above use the same uni joint.

So you sort out how its all going to work and then find out what the angle should be and set it up at that.


I can think of ten different ways that it can be done. But its not up to how easy or simple it is to do...

I dont get what your actually wanting to acheive. Magical suspension fairy to wave a wand or something. To an extent you have to work with what the gemini has got. If you want a 4 link go build one and be done with it. But i thought this was about easy and simple, think outside the 4 link box your in.

Bob.
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DO NOT PRIVATE MESSAGE ME FOR ASSISTANCE, IM AN ASSHOLE YOU WILL GET AN EAR BASHING, ASK IN THE GENERAL FORUM.
Gene FJ20DEBT
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Post by Gene FJ20DEBT »

Rodeobob wrote:
Find me a car that has four arm suspension to locate the diff that has parallel arms as a factory setup.

i never said they had to parralle.. im saying bolting to the floor at the torque tube mount the angle is to low..

Ive never seen one. More the point is the top arms are always shorter and usually by heaps,

never said they had to be the same length.. its just a sketch in MSpaint.. its not a scale diagram

thats not going to keep the pinion angle straight. Thats why they have universal joints.

ture.. from factory... if someone was to go 4 link whats wrong with improving on a factory design ?

Take a leaf spring. They wind up something stupid under acceleration. What does that do to Pinion angle???

Its not about where it goes, its about where its set to start with. It cant be straight, there has to be some inital static angle.

Wheres the Pinion angle in the std gemini setup???? Its at the front of the torque tube. Thats going to create a greater variance in angles when the diff moves than if the gemini had a one peice tailshaft because the unis at either end can take up 50% of the angle each. With the torque tube mounted to the floor at the front the rear uni is doing most of the work as the front one at the back of the box has no up and down movement to create any angle change.

i know.. but thats like compairing 2 different things.. the tube acts in the same way a tadar bar does... not like a 4 link

Now look at a four link setup. The common holden variety. Totaly different pinion charecteristics/behaviour again.

All three of the above use the same uni joint.

So you sort out how its all going to work and then find out what the angle should be and set it up at that.


I can think of ten different ways that it can be done. But its not up to how easy or simple it is to do...

I dont get what your actually wanting to acheive. Magical suspension fairy to wave a wand or something. To an extent you have to work with what the gemini has got. If you want a 4 link go build one and be done with it. But i thought this was about easy and simple, think outside the 4 link box your in.

im not in any 4 link box.. you keep on bringing up 4 links every time i mention anythign.. i say "i can get the tube put on a hiluxx diff" then u jump in and say "blah blah blah, thats not gonna act like a 4 link"... when did i ever say it would.. ???i never said i want somethign like a 4 link.. i said i would LIKE a 4 link but i dont wanna cut into my car, which means i have to do something else simpler and legal... i never once said it has to act like a 4 link... :roll:

Bob.
gene
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scottr0076
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Diff centres

Post by scottr0076 »

im going to use a hilux or was even thinking of using a vn diff modified,but not to sure yet just sick of blowing diff centre and my lastest project is going to use a sr20det i think its smart to run something ample
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Post by Gene FJ20DEBT »

yeah thats true.. i think im gonna go with a torque tube mounted on the lux diff. and mod the tube rubber

at least this way i can try it.. if it work then im hapy.. if it dosnt i can take it of and sell it (cant see it being a hard item to sell) and set up some links like that :D
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scottr0076
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Post by scottr0076 »

I cant see it being to hard to adapt the torque because the way the hilux diff is shaped there is room on the front for a mounting plate for the torque tube to bolt up to, i suppose its just a matter of working out if you need to cut the tube down in length so the ruber mount and brackets line up but i tell you what its a bloody good starting point also considering the width of a hilux diff i think there's not much difference, some models have smaller width diffs but that throws out your track.But when i post these pictures for you tommorow gene have a look there is no 2 link or 4 link set up just a 9 inch gemini factory mounts and the two on top of the diff either side if the centre i dont know how the f*#k that works well but it might just do it as well.
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