Nikki & Weber jet sizes
Nikki & Weber jet sizes
Just a bit of a noobie question. Should I go by the jet sizes of the nikki to use on a 32/36 weber, or will it run lean due to the bigger throats on it.
I've pulled a Weber down and cleaned it up etc and have jets from a 2.0L (presumably) and from a 1.6L Cortina/Capri/whatever the motor came from.
NB: Im not interested in the whole Nikki vs Weber argument/dyno tuning, it's just some idea's floating around in my head at work
I've pulled a Weber down and cleaned it up etc and have jets from a 2.0L (presumably) and from a 1.6L Cortina/Capri/whatever the motor came from.
NB: Im not interested in the whole Nikki vs Weber argument/dyno tuning, it's just some idea's floating around in my head at work
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So does that mean a 145 nikki jet will flow less or more than a 145
What Im thinking of doing is trying to match the current size to reduce lean/flat spotting etc.
for example
Nikki:
Primary - Secondary
145 165
Weber:
134 150
Should I get weber jets to copy the same numbers in the Nikki or more or less.
What Im thinking of doing is trying to match the current size to reduce lean/flat spotting etc.
for example
Nikki:
Primary - Secondary
145 165
Weber:
134 150
Should I get weber jets to copy the same numbers in the Nikki or more or less.
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Unfortunately, unless you pull the carbie off the cortina yourself, there is no guarantee that yuo will get cortina jetting.
http://www.ozgemini.com/forums/tech/vie ... hp?t=18183
There are a few views on weber jetting on this site at the end of the thread
http://www.ozgemini.com/forums/tech/vie ... hp?t=18183
There are a few views on weber jetting on this site at the end of the thread
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The stock Cortina/Escort factory jetting will start the engine and run but it is NOT ideal. It's quite possible that carby has altered jetting Tezza.
It isn't just the difference in overall capacity that matters, it's the difference in bore/stroke ratio as well as connecting rod length differences that matters.
You might expect a 32/36DGV to run the same on a G200Z but it doesn't run the same as it does on the 2 litre Ford engine. It's the same as using the twin DCOE setup off my old Ford Lotus twin cam engine on a G161Z engine, it is also a 1.6 litre but they just don't swap over like that.
I suggest anyone wanting to get into carby swaps takes the time to learn about them before starting. How often is the same Weber carby settings question asked here and it's yet to be answered. All too often people post here not asking for someone to teach them, only asking for free handouts... That is one of the main reasons Gemi Coupe said he got sick of helping, he said he left because he was sick of people not wanting to learn, just asking for a free mechanic!
So, rather than just telling someone 'the answer', offer them a means of learning for themselves. Understanding how a car functions is what we are all hoping to achieve isn't it? When you don't understand what can cause a problem you often just randomly replace things which costs money... the idea is to use the symptoms to narrow down a lot of possibilities to a few, then do some tests to reduce that smaller number of possibilities even further.
It isn't just the difference in overall capacity that matters, it's the difference in bore/stroke ratio as well as connecting rod length differences that matters.
You might expect a 32/36DGV to run the same on a G200Z but it doesn't run the same as it does on the 2 litre Ford engine. It's the same as using the twin DCOE setup off my old Ford Lotus twin cam engine on a G161Z engine, it is also a 1.6 litre but they just don't swap over like that.
I suggest anyone wanting to get into carby swaps takes the time to learn about them before starting. How often is the same Weber carby settings question asked here and it's yet to be answered. All too often people post here not asking for someone to teach them, only asking for free handouts... That is one of the main reasons Gemi Coupe said he got sick of helping, he said he left because he was sick of people not wanting to learn, just asking for a free mechanic!
So, rather than just telling someone 'the answer', offer them a means of learning for themselves. Understanding how a car functions is what we are all hoping to achieve isn't it? When you don't understand what can cause a problem you often just randomly replace things which costs money... the idea is to use the symptoms to narrow down a lot of possibilities to a few, then do some tests to reduce that smaller number of possibilities even further.
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Re: Nikki & Weber jet sizes
Next time, I'll just swap them over and ask for a free mechanic instead of clarifying things beforehandPavlos wrote:it's just some idea's floating around in my head at work