DIY 32/36 weber WITH choke?

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archangel62
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DIY 32/36 weber WITH choke?

Post by archangel62 »

Hey guys,

I managed to fit a 32/36 Weber to my Gemini manifold (via adaptor plate) and get a half working throttle linkage setup, DIY, without removing the choke. It's not too dodgy either, in that it's sturdy, and mounts directly to the carby. The problem at this point is the accelerator cable needs a good 5cm more slack, perhaps it could be cut or extended but so far I haven't had any luck. If anyone has any ideas post them up, I myself have caved and paid a welder mate to make up a linkage... :( so this thread's been a bit of a waste of time. But if anyone's interested here's what I tried.

You need:
32/36DGV weber (might work with others but mine's a DGV)
An angle grinder
An air filter that bolts to the face of the carby, and can compress a gasket beneath it... Works fine with Redline and probably Ramflo too
A donor Nikki, or the accelerator mounting bracket and throttle semi-circle clip from a Nikki
A drill and small drill bit
A bit of thick wire, or a broad headed nail, that can be bent around to hold something... Or a bolt etc, use your imagination
A chunky cork gasket to go from the weber carby to air filter
Adaptor plate to suit your Gemini manifold
Gaskets to suit manifold, and the weber side of the adaptor plate
Shitloads of gasket goo/etc

Ok, so the way this works is, the stock nikki throttle semi-circle bolts on where the weber's throttle thing was, that's easy enough and most people know that part already.. But the Nikki accelerator cable mount, where it bolts on and adjusts tension, is also usable.

Image

See the pictures - with the air filter completely removed from the Weber, slip the cable mount bracket over the stud nearest to the accelerator cable (assuming there are studs in the top of your Weber, if not, go to universal fasteners/etc), it would be the driver's side rear stud if it was mounted on a car. Slide the whole thing as far down as it will go, and push the end furthest from the cable mount towards where the rocker cover would be. Basically, you're twisting the whole bracket as far as possible towards the carby throats.

Image

The bracket will at this point foul on the edge of the carby very slightly, near where the bracket bends down for the cable mounting part. You can see what I mean in the pictures - you have to grind a small amount away at the carby to make it sit flat. This isn't an issue and you won't damage anything unless you screw up real bad. Just take a little off each time and see how it feels, it only took me two passes with the grinder and it's perfect.

Image

Slip the bracket on again, the whole thing should sit flat now. However, at this stage the bracket can still rotate, which you obviously don't want. The other bolt hole doesn't line up at all, so we need to make a new second mount. If you sit/stand so you're looking at the choke side of the carby, the side with your throttle bracket on it, pull the left side of the bracket towards you, and push the right side away from you towards the carby. Push the whole thing down too, basically so it's sitting as tight as possible. Holding it like this, drill a small hole where I have in the picture. On mine there was an indented mark on the underside of the carby's top plate that I aimed for. Drill slowly and carefully, you want to be precise.

Image

You will also need to cut off the excess part of the bracket, see the above picture. If you don't it may foul on the filter clips etc. Once you've drilled through there, you can devise whatever method you want to keep these two holes lined up. Bear in mind a gasket will be pushing against this whole setup, so you want to make it as smooth and flat as possible. You can, if you want, grind away at the top side of the Nikki bracket around your drilled hole, to make it sit a bit lower so you can fit a bigger nail/bolt head in without upsetting the gasket etc. Just don't leave the bracket too thin. I ground away at it a little, to maybe half it's original diameter, and just twisted some thick fencing wire in there. Don't put it in yet though!

Before securing the whole thing, take the throttle bracket off and bend it, if you have access to a welder or something to heat it up it'd be great, but I just used various bolts, and an exhaust header, as anvils. Try to keep the side that bolts to the weber flat, but you want to bend the part where the cable bolts on down as much as possible, to bring it closer to the accelerator semi-circle clip thing. As is, there will be a lot of cable exposed.

When you're done with that, slip the whole assembly back on, smooth over the whole lot with a s*#t load of gasket goo, try to get the goo flat and maybe leave to thicken a bit before putting the gasket on... Then bolt the bottom plate of the air filter down with a s*#t load more gasket goo. Unless you plan on changing or parting out the whole setup, you can just fill any gaps between the bottom plate and the carby throats with gasket goo to make sure no dirt gets sucked in etc.

Here's where I am at the moment, ready to pop on the car:

Image Image Image Image

With a standard Gemini accelerator cable, it will need to be adjusted ALL the way out, or possibly even have the plastic part of the cable shortened or the wire part lengthened. This depends on how much you bend the cable bracket. I'm planning to shorten the shrouded part of the cable myself.

Enjoy! I'll post again when I know if the cable reached, and any problems encountered etc. I did the lot in an afternoon, and only had to pay for the carby, adaptor plate and two gaskets... :)


edit: Sorry some of this is a little hard to explain, I've been up all night and some of it's just really hard to convey with words... Pictures are good! Any questions just reply here and I'll do my best cheers.
Last edited by archangel62 on Thu Mar 26, 2009 1:52 am, edited 2 times in total.
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archangel62
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Post by archangel62 »

Noone run out and do this just yet though. The exposed part of the accelerator cable needs to be about 4cm longer, which as it turns out is easier said than done.

Does anyone have any ideas as to how to do this? Cutting and re-sealing the cable is a bit dodgy, and extending the stock one actually seems kinda hard. Can you buy longer cables?? Or is there any kind of tradesman who could do this easily?
My Gemini drift videos: http://www.youtube.com/PandamoniumDrift
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Current tally: 5 Geminis and a Piazza
Buggzy
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Post by Buggzy »

sorry to seem like a smart ass, but the most simple way thats also common is to just space out the river side engine mount with some washers, so the choke has clearance. works really well!
Boostin for lyfe!
archangel62
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Post by archangel62 »

It's not about clearance - this is on my TX so I don't have that issue :D but most of the throttle linkages around replace the choke, which sucks..
My Gemini drift videos: http://www.youtube.com/PandamoniumDrift
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Current tally: 5 Geminis and a Piazza
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LOK15
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Post by LOK15 »

dont mod the cable.. mod the cable mount.. bring it closer down to the butterfly actuator
Getting too old for this s*#t!!
ATD79
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Post by ATD79 »

Where does the small rocker cover hose go to now cause my weber seems to be running ultra lean?
archangel62
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Post by archangel62 »

That's pollution gear, won't influence how your weber runs... It should go wherever it did before, which is either after the air filter but before the carby, or into the inlet after the carby...

Just make sure you don't have an air leak after the carby as that will make it run lean.
My Gemini drift videos: http://www.youtube.com/PandamoniumDrift
Follow us on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/PandamoniumDrift
Current tally: 5 Geminis and a Piazza
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