Strengthened torque tube - pics

Engine related articles specific to induction (carby, EFI etc.)
TDgemoz
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Post by TDgemoz »

i know what a fricken torque tube is... i was wondering what was used 2 strengthen it like in the pics... DURRRRRRRR!!!!
Thirsty
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Post by Thirsty »

Actually the pics are of strengthening a drive shaft.
See this thread, a ladder type rear with I guess a Hilux diff { I stand to be corrected}
http://www.ozgemini.com/forums/tech/vie ... &start=240

DO YOU SEE A TORQUE TUBE?
No because the torque tube is the TUBE in which the drive shaft rotates and is used as a third mounting point of the standard Gemini rear suspension.
The suspension would fall out of the car without a torque tube.
If there was no drive shaft inside the torque tube, but the torque tube was in place the car would not move and the suspension would stay under the car.
Which is why the rubber mount on the end opposite the differential. If the rubber mount is worn the rear will bang vibrate and generally carry on, mostly under deceleration.
True a bent driveshaft will vibrate at speed and having a thicker one properly turned on a lathe will be better than standard with higher HP engines.
I ran a rally Gem with 110 HP at the wheels and never bent a drive shaft, but hammered the s__t out of the rubber mounts till I had them rebuilt by Qld Rollers and Liners at Rocklea.
I also welded a 10mm thick piece of steel inside the mount on top and under the rubber to reduce the movement.
This was very successful as I ran that setup for 18 months without touching it again.

My point was three different discussions going on in one topic by people who were not thinking about the subject and were obviously confused.
Cheers
Ross :)
Buggzy
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Post by Buggzy »

TDgemoz wrote:i know what a fricken torque tube is... i was wondering what was used 2 strengthen it like in the pics... DURRRRRRRR!!!!
just some black seamless steam pipe welded only at the diff end. No not weld at both ends!!! We have to slightly machine down exsisting shaft to get rid of all the standard casting burs and crap and then bore the pipe o fit tight over the shaft, heat the pipe and press it on, weld the end and then machine the other end to suit the flange to the tailshaft.

I still do them if your interested shoot me a pm.
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megagem
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Post by megagem »

After I solid mounted the driveshaft bearing ( centre bearing is not really a correct description ) , the problem with drive shaft distortion went away.
A wire rope to limit upward travel of the torque tube isolator rubber
will stop those from tearing too. Packing that up with extra rubber can
stiffen it too much and turn the car into a gross over steering pig, also
useful in drifting but not much else.
stockgemils1
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Post by stockgemils1 »

i may need one of these soon
dean8
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Upgraded Shaft

Post by dean8 »

After recently purchasing one of these shafts I quickly learn't that if you don't want a loud banging noise to occur every time you take off, you will need to buy a steel tube from an early model gemini. Most people selling these upgraded shafts forget to tell you that there is not enough clearance between the shaft and the alloy tube in later model geminis. The other issue that you then have is the rubber mounts can't be purchased for the steel tube. After pulling apart a steel tube, then grinding off the threaded sections for the old mounts, a new style mount can be pressed onto the steel tube. After putting the whole package back together the shaft works well. Don't be fooled into handing over cash for one of these shafts if you can't find a steel tube or can't put up with an annoying banging noise when the shaft hits the inside of your alloy tube.
geminiv6turboute
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Re: Upgraded Shaft

Post by geminiv6turboute »

dean8 wrote:After recently purchasing one of these shafts I quickly learn't that if you don't want a loud banging noise to occur every time you take off, you will need to buy a steel tube from an early model gemini. Most people selling these upgraded shafts forget to tell you that there is not enough clearance between the shaft and the alloy tube in later model geminis. The other issue that you then have is the rubber mounts can't be purchased for the steel tube. After pulling apart a steel tube, then grinding off the threaded sections for the old mounts, a new style mount can be pressed onto the steel tube. After putting the whole package back together the shaft works well. Don't be fooled into handing over cash for one of these shafts if you can't find a steel tube or can't put up with an annoying banging noise when the shaft hits the inside of your alloy tube.
i have not heard of this problem before,thanks for the head's up. :wink:
Buggzy
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Re: Upgraded Shaft

Post by Buggzy »

dean8 wrote:After recently purchasing one of these shafts I quickly learn't that if you don't want a loud banging noise to occur every time you take off, you will need to buy a steel tube from an early model gemini. Most people selling these upgraded shafts forget to tell you that there is not enough clearance between the shaft and the alloy tube in later model geminis. The other issue that you then have is the rubber mounts can't be purchased for the steel tube. After pulling apart a steel tube, then grinding off the threaded sections for the old mounts, a new style mount can be pressed onto the steel tube. After putting the whole package back together the shaft works well. Don't be fooled into handing over cash for one of these shafts if you can't find a steel tube or can't put up with an annoying banging noise when the shaft hits the inside of your alloy tube.
have sold around 40 of these over the years and never never heard of this before. I have heard of people forgetting to put the spring in between the shaft and the diff yolk and it causing simular problems to what yoru saying though?
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Buggzy
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Re: Upgraded Shaft

Post by Buggzy »

dean8 wrote:After recently purchasing one of these shafts I quickly learn't that if you don't want a loud banging noise to occur every time you take off, you will need to buy a steel tube from an early model gemini. Most people selling these upgraded shafts forget to tell you that there is not enough clearance between the shaft and the alloy tube in later model geminis. The other issue that you then have is the rubber mounts can't be purchased for the steel tube. After pulling apart a steel tube, then grinding off the threaded sections for the old mounts, a new style mount can be pressed onto the steel tube. After putting the whole package back together the shaft works well. Don't be fooled into handing over cash for one of these shafts if you can't find a steel tube or can't put up with an annoying banging noise when the shaft hits the inside of your alloy tube.
by the way who did you purchase yoru shaft from because i dont reconise you a a customer? What width is your shafts? maybe they are too wide?
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dean8
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Upgraded Shaft

Post by dean8 »

Didn't want to say who I bought it off so as to not bad mouth them, but it was a well respected gemini owner. Not sure of the diameter as it is in the car now. I am running a nissan box so the spring is not relevant to me.
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OTD 079
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Post by OTD 079 »

When I got mine done, I supplied both the inner shaft and also the ALLOY housing. BOTH were modified to suit the modified torque tube!!

Perhaps the outer shaft was not modifed in your set up??

Cheers,

Matthew
Buggzy
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Post by Buggzy »

hands up who has one of mine please!!!
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06EMY
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Post by 06EMY »

I do. I was one of probably the first 10 to get one. And it still hasn't been used yet(It takes awhile to build a modified street car).
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iViLe
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Post by iViLe »

I think I bent the front end of my strengthened extension shaft, with the tail shaft off, I can turn the back wheels and the flange at the front of the diff moves around like the shaft is bent, Oh and it was vibrating like a mother f#*ker over 60kph, Guess ill have to chuck it in a lathe and find out, unless the flange is bent?
VG30ET + white gemini wagon....
6.0L Gen4 + T56 Powered 64 Chev Belair.
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stockgemils1
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Re: Upgraded Shaft

Post by stockgemils1 »

dean8 wrote:Didn't want to say who I bought it off so as to not bad mouth them, but it was a well respected gemini owner. Not sure of the diameter as it is in the car now. I am running a nissan box so the spring is not relevant to me.
you still have to put the spring in mate it dont mater what box you got
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