Want Delco EFI??? Heres how to remove it from a Pulsar/Astra

Engine related articles specific to induction (carby, EFI etc.)
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Rodeobob
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Want Delco EFI??? Heres how to remove it from a Pulsar/Astra

Post by Rodeobob »

I thought this might be of use to someone who was looking to use the Delco EFI on any car but they dont have heaps of mechanical knowledge.
This is what you would be looking at. Its a 1987-89 Holden LD Astra, Multi Point 1.8L Same as an 87-91 N13 Pulsar. Holden Je Camira would be similar to do.
All the pictures are clickable thumbs 550-950KB in size to give you a good look..(doh paint shrunk most of em)
Image

Some important things to note.
Despite these cars being a bit tinny, they have reasonably good quality wiring plugs. Check for the tab and push it in or pull it up to undo the plug.
If your doing a conversion, Keep the other plug as well and cut yourself off a good amount of wire to use on the other side to wire into your car.
Keep the senders etc. Im going to go thru removing the loom itself then i will have notes on the bottom about the things it plugs into.

Okay here goes.
1. Dissconnect the battery.
2. Take the Passenger seat out.
Under the seat is the ECU enclosed in the plastic holder.
You can see it all in the pic, the three screws that hold it to the floor are screwed back in their holes.
No real need to take it out of the holder just unplug the wires.
Image

3. Remove the sill cover plastic thing and lift the carpet up.
4. Pull the wiring out thru the hole in the carpet and fold the carpet back.
Image

5. The white plastic U-bend bit that goes over the seat mounting bracket needs to be levered up.
Its got a plastic expander tab that pokes thru a hole. Squeeze it with pointy nose pliers or cut it off with side cutters.
6. The black corner cover, it there to protect the wiring. Its got the plastic screw seperating plugs to hold it on, undo them and get it out of the way.
7. Get rid of the kick pannel.
8. Pull the Dash loom connector wiring plugs out of the hole and you should have it looking like this.
Image

9. Undo the plugs. Or cut the dash wiring loom off, get yourself as much length as you can.
We will leave that bit ther for now and go under the hood and start at the furtherest point.
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10. Un hook the 02 sensor wire, un clip the belt cover to get the wire out. Get the sensor out of the exhaust manifold.
11. Un hook the Temp sender, remove the sender.
12. With a 17mm socket undo the nuts on the top of the head bolts and remove the earth wires.
Image

13. Un plug the Throttle Position switch.
14. Unplug the Idle Air Control.
15. Unplug the hose to the Manifold Air Pressure Sender.
16. Unplug and remove the MAP sensor from the car. The Map sensor is riveted to the bracket.
On some cars the bracket that holds the MAP is spot welded to the firewall. Cold Chisel and a hammer works well. On others its screwed to the fire wall.
Heres a pic of the 1.6L TBI setup, unfortunately i forgot to get a happy snap before i unplugged the wires. It shows the MAP on the fire wall and also a good shot of the earth wires for the loom on the head bolts.
Image
A note on the 1.6L. The wire that goes up to the injector goes thru a rubber gromet. That Gromet sits in a slot in the base for the air cleaner. You need to get the air cleaner to TB gasket off. I found i had to use a sharp knife to get some bits of the gasket off so i could get the plug out.

16A. Ooops i forgot, unplug the injectors, didnt get a good pic of the injector plugs.
17. Unplug the Manifold Air Temp sender. Note: Only on the 1.8L the 1.6L doesnt use one.
18. Unplug the two plugs into the Distributor/Module.
Image

19. Unplug the Coil. IMPORTANT NOTE: Remove the Gray plug first. Unfortunately i didnt get a clear pic of the plugs. Theres an earth wire under there also.
Below Ive marked the resistor for the Tacho as that whole clump of wiring is part of the ECU loom.
Image

Thats pretty much all the wiring off the motor. In the next pic its hanging over the guard. Good shot of the MAP sensor as well.
Image

18. Un screw the Air con relays (if fitted) and the Intermittant wiper Relay box from the fire wall.
19. Unplug the wiper realy box and the wiper motor. The wiring for the wipers is in the engine loom, for some reason. I dare say just to get it thru the fire wall, strip back the tape to the dash plugs and i would think it would be seperate and come away from the ECU loom.


Heres the hole the loom goes thru looking from the engine side. Theres tangles from other looms and the washer tube and also the brake line. If i recall right theres and earth screw in there somewhere too.
Image

Now back into the car. Heres a pic of the clip that makes the loom hard to get out.
Image

Ive stripped the dash and heater box.
Use a screwdriver or similar to get up in there and bust the clip, you shouldnt need to remove the dash etc. The loom will then feed thru the firewall into the engine bay.

Ive pulled the dash out to be on the safe side. I forgot that that clip/tie was there and couldnt pull it thru. I was removing the 1.8L loom and replacing it with the 1.6L loom so i can put the 1.6L motor in the car. I dont fancy trying to poke the loom back thru the hole with the heater box and dash in the way, so its best its out.

*************************************************************

As far as all the switches etc i would grab the inlet manifold as a complete unit. I would grab the whole lot together because then you get the TB with all its switches as well as the injectors and the Fuel Pressure regualtor.
That would leave you with just the O2 sensor, the water temp sender and the MAP to grab. Unbolt the Distributor and take the whole thing and that will make the coil easy to take off the motor bracket and all.

That should get you started on your way to EFI.

Feel free to correct me or comment as you see fit.
Piazza for sale, black, manual, in fair condition with heaps of parts $3500 (parts not for sale seperately)
DO NOT PRIVATE MESSAGE ME FOR ASSISTANCE, IM AN ASSHOLE YOU WILL GET AN EAR BASHING, ASK IN THE GENERAL FORUM.
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Rodeobob
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Post by Rodeobob »

Another extra note.
There is a small wiring loom that goes down under the rear of the motor to the oil sender. Im not sure if the ecu needs it. I will look into it, just incase it does i would grab the loom and the sender. That sub loom does the oil sender and the starter motor as well as the gearbox (reverse for manual and the saftey switch for the auto)




You will need a special spanner to get the O2 sensor out of the exhaust. I used a 7/8 imperial spanner that id cut the open ender off to make another special tool. You have to gring the ring end so its realy thin because theres not much clerance around it and it will be tight as. I had to put a two foot lenght of pipe on to undo mine. I doubt youd get it off in the car unless the radiator and etc were removed.

The speedo sender will screw straight onto a Gemini/Rodeo gearbox. But unless your planning on using the electric speedo out of the donor car thats not realy good news. Im pretty sure most of the conversion places sell splitter boxes so you can drive both the speed sensor and the cable for your speedo.

When i get a chance i will put up some more pics of the senders and stuff along with spanner sizes etc to get them out...

Bob.
Piazza for sale, black, manual, in fair condition with heaps of parts $3500 (parts not for sale seperately)
DO NOT PRIVATE MESSAGE ME FOR ASSISTANCE, IM AN ASSHOLE YOU WILL GET AN EAR BASHING, ASK IN THE GENERAL FORUM.
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Post by Gemi Coupe »

A few tips,
Remove and keep the plastic holder for the ECU, I mounted mine to the underside of my glovebox and it fits really neatly, Its also a good way of holding the ECU in position without it being accidentally damaged.

If you don't want the throttle body at least take the Idle air stepper motor, the round black solenoid thing with a 4 pin plug on the side of the throttle body. they are worth around $270 new and you can get a billet aluminum adaptor to fit one with a hose fitting on either side, used when adapting that system to a ford 6 cyl engine, available from the Kalmaker website, www.Kalmaker.com.au

For the Exaust sensor, work out whether its worth taking or not first. they have a finite lifespan of around 120,000 to 150,000 kms.
they are a fairly cheap sensor anyway, and your probably better getting a new one anyway, However, if your fuel mixtures are off, it can kill your sensor, so the old one would be good for initial tuning.
If you need to remove it and its really tight, a deep socket with a slot cut down one side for the wiring to poke out will be good to loosen the sensor and then it can be removed easily with a spanner.

For the coil wiring, the camira/astra wiring can be adapted easily to run any type of coil, the pink wire is the power wire and the brown is the negative wire. both pink wires are duplicates and connect to the same point on the coil, while the thinner brown wire is only a tacho feed wire and connects to the same negative termianl on the coil.
NOTE! If you wire up the gemini coil, make sure you keep the ballast resistor!
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Rodeobob
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Post by Rodeobob »

Thats good info that^^^^
Gemi Coupe wrote:For the Exaust sensor, work out whether its worth taking or not first. they have a finite lifespan of around 120,000 to 150,000 kms.
they are a fairly cheap sensor anyway, and your probably better getting a new one anyway, However, if your fuel mixtures are off, it can kill your sensor, so the old one would be good for initial tuning.
If you need to remove it and its really tight, a deep socket with a slot cut down one side for the wiring to poke out will be good to loosen the sensor and then it can be removed easily with a spanner.
Id say that cutting a slot in a socket would see it break pretty easy.
I had to put a foot and a half bit of pipe on my spanner i ground down to loosen the 02 sensor. It was bloody thight.

Once you crack it loose wind it out a bit then in a bit and it will eventually be wound right out. The threads can catch and bunch up so take care pulling it out.

Bob.
Piazza for sale, black, manual, in fair condition with heaps of parts $3500 (parts not for sale seperately)
DO NOT PRIVATE MESSAGE ME FOR ASSISTANCE, IM AN ASSHOLE YOU WILL GET AN EAR BASHING, ASK IN THE GENERAL FORUM.
Gemi Coupe
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Post by Gemi Coupe »

Rodeobob wrote: Id say that cutting a slot in a socket would see it break pretty easy.
Yup, thats why you use a cheap single hex deep socket, it can also help if you spray some Inox or WD40 or similar rust penetrating spray lube before trying to undo it.
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Post by F3ARED »

Just as a side note, that grey ECU Holder - try to avoid getting the ECU out of cars where the ecu holder has been removed or looks tampered with. Its a common fault with these cars once the holder is broken [youd be suprised how many people reach UNDER the seat when trying to move the seat forward], once the holders gone the pin outs on the ECU get abit f*#cked up from being able to move around.

Result? An ecu that cuts out and needs the plug jiggled and fiddled with to get the car to fire again. Its happened to two of my mates cars.

Nick-
Previously GeminiCoupe/GeminiRollingShell/SCAR3D/Jonnoisac#nt

78 TD Gemini Sedan - R.I.P
81 TE Gemini Sedan
Gemheaven
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Post by Gemheaven »

so i take it u cant use the manifold ???
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Post by Bradlze »

bahahahahahaha no
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Post by Buggzy »

Gemheaven wrote:so i take it u cant use the manifold ???
OMFG!!!

try ebay dude... look for fully sik air filter...
Boostin for lyfe!
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Post by Gemheaven »

well wasnt this thread meant to show people who dont no much about this injection setup how to do it and he didnt say any thing about the manifold not fitting ohh and buy the way i went on ebay like u said but i typed i fu*k head and u came up in the search results
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Post by Gemi Coupe »

dude, your a tool.
this thread is to show people how to REMOVE the EFi components from an astra, so that they can then use it for something else.
It doens't go anywhere about fitting it into a gemini, other then the occasional footnote.

And smartass comments like that arent needed here.
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Post by Boosted TG »

what would be needed to fit to a gemini??
Bradlze
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Post by Bradlze »

Boosted TG wrote:what would be needed to fit to a gemini??
a packet of starburst
Last edited by Bradlze on Mon Mar 12, 2007 4:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Rodeobob
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Post by Rodeobob »

Boosted TG wrote:what would be needed to fit to a gemini??
I will get to that one day.

I recently got the TBI setup off a 1.6L motor.


Thats just a matter of making the TB fit up where the carby was on the Gemini motor.

Then youve got to find a home for all the other bits that came off the donor motor.

EFI fuel pump.
Distributor conversion.
O2 sensor.
Speed sensor.


Im working on stuff. Watch this space.


Bob.
Piazza for sale, black, manual, in fair condition with heaps of parts $3500 (parts not for sale seperately)
DO NOT PRIVATE MESSAGE ME FOR ASSISTANCE, IM AN ASSHOLE YOU WILL GET AN EAR BASHING, ASK IN THE GENERAL FORUM.
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VSS

Post by Dexy »

Ive just done a delco efi conversion on my gemmy, thought i had it all finished and got an emissions test done so it could be engineered, it failed miserably, and was using fuel like crazy. Spoke to a few people and i wasnt running a VSS sensor (vehicle speed sensor). I have also found out that you cant just use one out of the pulsar / camira / VN. All of these cars also use the VSS sensor for the speedo, and the signal is sent from the VSS to the speedo, there this a "divide by 10" circuit in the speedo, and this signal is then sent to the ECU.

So what all this means is that you need an aftermarket VSS sensor with the divide by 10 circuit already in it. Your original manual speedo cable will also have to piggyback onto the VSS as the both need to screw onto the same place.

I found a place in WA that make these units. A company called Kalmaker, specialise in Delco EFI. $120 delivered for the aftermarket VSS.
My other car is a camel
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