Turbo Hyperthetical
what about the 180sx's? they had ca18det's in them but i am unsure if they wre imports or not.
also, 20mm of shaft play is f*!kin excessive mate, are you sure he didnt mean 2mm? if its 20mm than stay the hell away from it because alot of material would have come off the rotor to give it that much play, and it will all be in the top of the pistons. the bearings would be flogged too and all the material that came off them will be in the engine oil. it sounds nasty to me.
also, 20mm of shaft play is f*!kin excessive mate, are you sure he didnt mean 2mm? if its 20mm than stay the hell away from it because alot of material would have come off the rotor to give it that much play, and it will all be in the top of the pistons. the bearings would be flogged too and all the material that came off them will be in the engine oil. it sounds nasty to me.
to do it properly you sorta need to put a dial gauge on the the end of the shaft and measure axial and radial movement. most manufacturers have a tolorence of 5-10 thou end float, and the same for radial, but this does vary.
but in your case, if it has 20mm of play, then there would be nearly nothing left of the blades, so just check them and if their intact, then its probably 2mm. if it touches and of the blades on either of the covers than the turbo is shagged, and with 2mm of play it would more than like be touching the covers. the normal clearance between wheel and cover is usually .5mm.
what i suggest you do is just move the rotor in any direction you can with your fingers, if you hear it scraping on the covers, the turbo's f*#cked. if you hear nothing and it still spins, then its probably just seals.
but in your case, if it has 20mm of play, then there would be nearly nothing left of the blades, so just check them and if their intact, then its probably 2mm. if it touches and of the blades on either of the covers than the turbo is shagged, and with 2mm of play it would more than like be touching the covers. the normal clearance between wheel and cover is usually .5mm.
what i suggest you do is just move the rotor in any direction you can with your fingers, if you hear it scraping on the covers, the turbo's f*#cked. if you hear nothing and it still spins, then its probably just seals.
how much you willing to spend? you give me your price range and ill see what i can do. if the turbo thats on the engine is truly f*#cked, then be very weary of the engine. it more than likely would have ingested most of the missng parts of the comp wheel. and that as far as im concerned is pretty goddam bad.
Okay got the motor...
It looks clean as, I am quite surprised.
It has everything on it, coil packs starter alternator air box piping everything except for the fridge.
The turbo is stuffed though big time. You can move the wheel from left to right pretty freely.
It does not look like the fan thing has broken much of it just looks bent out of shape on the fins. IF you spin it it makes no noise but is just loose and the fins look bent.
There is also oil through out the cooler and the pipes which needs a good clean.
The motor though is clean as. The water was green as green as coolant can be. The oil is clean and nearly perfect. I will drain the oil tomorrow through a strainer and see if anything comes out (ie: metal of any sort). Even came with the intercooler and piping for it.
I am going to take the turbo to a shop tomorrow and get them to have a look see.
It looks clean as, I am quite surprised.
It has everything on it, coil packs starter alternator air box piping everything except for the fridge.
The turbo is stuffed though big time. You can move the wheel from left to right pretty freely.
It does not look like the fan thing has broken much of it just looks bent out of shape on the fins. IF you spin it it makes no noise but is just loose and the fins look bent.
There is also oil through out the cooler and the pipes which needs a good clean.
The motor though is clean as. The water was green as green as coolant can be. The oil is clean and nearly perfect. I will drain the oil tomorrow through a strainer and see if anything comes out (ie: metal of any sort). Even came with the intercooler and piping for it.
I am going to take the turbo to a shop tomorrow and get them to have a look see.
Ill post a pic....
As you can tell I do not know much about turbo's just the good old g series.
If you move it left to righ it does not touch or scrape. But at the very tops of the fins they are a little white only a touch from where they have been rubbing a bit.
I did as tx240 and yourself did, I spin it and it spins freely with no noise just a bit of oil coming out.
As you can tell I do not know much about turbo's just the good old g series.
If you move it left to righ it does not touch or scrape. But at the very tops of the fins they are a little white only a touch from where they have been rubbing a bit.
I did as tx240 and yourself did, I spin it and it spins freely with no noise just a bit of oil coming out.
More balls?
What are you implying
In all honesty I will be upgrading as soon as it starts and I hear the motor running. Till then I will keep it stock and save cash in case a forgey rebuild is on the cards.
Like I said before but I can move the shaft thing from left to right quite freely? Is that normal or what?
What are you implying
In all honesty I will be upgrading as soon as it starts and I hear the motor running. Till then I will keep it stock and save cash in case a forgey rebuild is on the cards.
Like I said before but I can move the shaft thing from left to right quite freely? Is that normal or what?
from what you described it does sound excessive but if you push the comp wheel hard to one side can you make it touch the cover? if not than its probably not very bad. may just need a basic rebuild with an oversize seal ring, kit and a balance. shouldnt cost more than $650 at the max if thats the case.